La Bocca della Verita

The Mouth of Truth (La Bocca della Verita), made famous by Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday, is located in the Greek Orthodox church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin. The church is nestled in the heart of the ancient cattle market, the Forum Boarium. Now this area is a busy spot filled with tourists on their way to the Circus Maximus. The legend is that any liar who puts his hand in the Mouth of Truth will have his hand bitten off! The true story of the Mouth of Truth is that it was probably once a drain cover in this marshy region next to the Tiber which was prone to flooding. The face depicted on the cover belongs to the sea god Oceanus. The church was originally built in the 6th century CE and is named for a quarter in Constantinople, Cosmedin. Be sure to take a peek inside when you visit-you will be amazed by the ancient frescoes and swirling Cosmatesque marble floors.

Knopf Guide to Rome

The Knopf Guide to Rome is a guidebook like no other. A work of art in itself, the guidebook contains indexes to the flora and fauna of Rome, explanations of the various art historical periods and architectural orders, and extensive reflections upon the famous emperors, popes and artists of Rome. Included in the book are detailed street and topography maps, overlays of reconstructions of ancient ruins, and countless images of paintings, sculptures and drawings all printed in the highest quality. It is the perfect book for the traveler who is interested in the history and art history of Rome. But don't worry-there is a very good section on practical information as well, so you will not be without suggestions for hotels, dining and shopping.

Fontana delle Tartarughe in the Jewish Ghetto

The historically Jewish neighborhood of Rome is still today a thriving neighborhood of kosher food shops and trattorias. The center of the neighborhood is Piazza Mattei, where you will find the Fontana delle Tartarughe (Tortoise Fountain), by Taddeo Landi in 1584. The Jewish Ghetto is nestled between the Roman Forum, the Tiber River and the Campo dei Fiori, making it the perfect place to stroll or have lunch on your way from one to another. The Ghetto is famous for the carciofi alla Giudea, deep-fried artichokes. Try the restaurant Giggetto al Portico d'Ottavia, located at Via del Portico d'Ottavia 21a-22, for an authentic experience. The restaurant is right next to the ruins of the Portico Octavia, built in the 1st century BCE by the emperor Augustus.

Bernini and the Ponte Sant'Angelo

The bridge to the Castel Sant'Angelo (a.k.a. the Mausoleum of Hadrian) is no ordinary bridge. Pope Clement IX asked Gian Lorenzo Bernini, the famous sculptor, to design 10 statues of angels to line the bridge. From Bernini's designs, the pupils in his studio executed the sculptures in 1670. The angels tower over the sides of the bridge at a height of 15 feet. At the foot of each angel is an inscription in Latin. Pictured here is an angel with a lance by Domenico Guidi whose inscription reads: vulnerasti cor meum-"you have wounded my heart." The bridge, open to foot traffic only, was historically the route of pilgrims to St. Peter's. The original bridge was built in the 2nd century CE to provide access to Hadrian's tomb.

L'altro Mastai near Ponte Sant'Angelo

Tucked away on a tiny street near the bridge to the Castel Sant'Angelo on Via Giraud, 53, is a restaurant unlike the typical Roman trattoria. L'altro Mastai, opened four years ago, is innovative, unexpected, and truly a gourmet experience. The menu offers many interesting twists on Roman dishes such as hen soup with Jerusalem artichoke and braised veal with parsley sauce. There is always a tasting menu with wines to match. The wine list is extensive and offers selections from all over Italy and Europe in all price ranges. The chef often circulates around the dining room after the meal, so don't miss the opportunity to talk to him about your exquisite food. Reservations are necessary. According to Zagat, the restaurant will be moving to a new location in winter of 2008-Via delle Terme di Traiano, 4a, near the Colosseum.

SPQR-What does it mean, anyway?

You may have noticed that the letters "SPQR" are everywhere in Rome-on tourist t-shirts, manhole covers, inscriptions on buildings old and new(er). The letters are actually an acronym dating back to the beginning of the Republican era of Rome (6th century BCE) when the government of ancient Rome changed from monarchical to representative. The acronym stands for the phrase "Senatus PopulusQue Romanus" which in Latin means "The Roman Senate and People." This was the seal of the Roman government and was used at the end of official documents, on coins, and on military standards even throughout the Imperial Era, when the senate and the people did not have as mmuch say in the business of the government as they had during the Republic. Now it is part of the coat of arms of the modern city of Rome and its official motto.

"The Civilized Shopper's Guide to Rome" by Margaret Brucia and Pamela Keech

If you are interested in seeing a Rome that rarely reveals itself to tourists, then you will enjoy the Civilized Shoppers Guide to Rome. This little book (literally 4"x 4") is a great companion to take with you as you search for out-of-the-way antiques shops and vintage clothing stores. And it's detailed with many stops for coffee and lunch on the way! Written by two long-time American (part-time) residents of Rome, the book provides size conversion charts, maps, and extensive contact information for each store listed.

Day Trips from Rome-Ostia

Ostia Antica was the port of ancient Rome. From here Roman traders would leave for locations around the Mediterranean, and traders from all over the Roman world would bring their goods here to be taken up the Tiber River to be sold in markets in Rome. Ostia was a prosperous city with all the features of a tiny Rome: an amphitheater, bath complexes, temples, markets, apartment buildings and lavish villas. Today Ostia is one of the best preserved ancient Roman archaeological sites, due to the fact that silt from the Tiber River covered it for the better part of 1500 years. Some would say that it is even better preserved than Pompeii. To get to Ostia, it's best to take the Metro line from the Porta San Paolo ("Piramide") station to Ostia Antica. If it's a particularly hot day, feel free to take the train on to Ostia Lido (the beach) after your visit to the ruins. You'll get a taste of the typical Italian beach experience-gelato, crowds, and spirited cafe life.

Antico Caffe della Pace

The streets of Rome smell distinctly like espresso. No wonder, since the coffee in Rome is among the best in the world. As a matter of course, Rome's coffee shops are an experience of their own. There are two ways to enjoy your coffee. If you are in a hurry and want to pay less, go first to the cashier, tell him what you want, pay, then take your receipt to the bar and hand it to the barista. Drink your coffee standing up at the bar. You will feel very Italian. If you are not in a hurry and don't mind paying more, take a seat. A waiter will take your order. Be prepared to spend some time at your table-rarely are the waiters in Rome in a hurry. They'll bring you the bill when they bring your order and expect you to pay then. You can sit there as long as you like. Be sure to use cash for nothing is more annoying (or so it seems, anyway) to a Roman waiter than dealing with credit cards. One particularly special cafe is Antico Caffe della Pace, located at Via della Pace 3/7 near Piazza Navona. Indoors is cozy with wood paneling, outdoors next to the ivy-covered walls is perfect for people watching. At night the cafe becomes more of a bar, with all sorts of stylish Italians filling the tables.

"1,000 Places to See Before You Die:" Restaurants in Rome

The New York Times bestseller, 1,000 Places to See Before You Die is more than just a checklist of famous sights and monuments. It also includes restaurant and hotel recommendations. For Rome, four restaurants were recommended by the well-known travel author, Patricia Schultz. In Trastevere she recommends the classic trattoria Da Checco er Carrettiere (Via Benedetta). For a local favorite near the Pantheon, try Da Fortunato al Pantheon (Via del Pantheon). Also near the Pantheon is La Rosetta (Via della Rosetta 8), where fresh seafood is flown in every morning and evening. Der Pallaro offers an authentic experience (without a menu!) in Campo dei Fiori (Largo del Pallaro). Buon Appetito!
1,000 Places to See Before You Die

Villa Borghese and Bernini

The Villa Borghese is located east of Piazza di Spagna and nestled in acres of incredible gardens. The Villa is home to the Galleria Borghese, a museum dedicated to the collections of Cardinal Scipione, the nephew of the early 17th century Pope Paul V. It was also the Cardinal's residence. The Galleria is most known for its sculpture and Renaissance painting collections, which feature some of the best works by Bernini, Canova and Caravaggio. Don't miss Bernini's Anchises and Aeneas (pictured) and his Daphne and Apollo. Visiting the gallery is by reservation only, so ask your hotel concierge to call ahead for you. The museum is closed on Mondays.

Travel and Leisure: World's Best Hotels-Rome

The January 2008 issue of Travel and Leisure lists the 500 best luxury hotels in the world. On the list are 5 of Rome' s most famous and elegant hotels. If you can't stay at these gorgeous establishments, at least pop in for a cocktail or dinner. The Hotel Hassler came in at Number 1 (and nearly the most expensive) in Rome and is located at the top of the Spanish Steps. Its attractions include celebrity sightings, proximity to the Borghese Gardens, and unbeatable access to the shops on the Via Condotti. Ranked number 2 in Rome is the St. Regis Grand Hotel (a Starwood Hotel), located near the Via Veneto. The Hotel de Russie, known for its gardens, came in at number 3 and is located conveniently between Piazza di Spagna and the Piazza del Popolo. Number 4 by a hair is the Rome Cavalieri Hilton which is located 3 miles from the city center but has a lovely private park and pool (perfect for summertime visitors). Its restaurant, La Pergola, has three Michelin stars. The Hotel Lord Byron came in at number 5. This hotel is located behind the Villa Borghese, so it's best to take a cab or be prepared for a leisurely walk through the Borghese Gardens to get to the historic center.

Roma Archaeologia Card and the Colosseum

If you are interested in visting the Roman National Museum sites (Palazzo Massimo Museum and the Octagonal Room of the Baths of Diocletian), the Colosseum, the Palatine Hill, the Baths of Caracalla, the Tomb of Cecilia Metella and the Villa of the Quintilii, perhaps you should consider purchasing the Roma Archaeologia Card. The card will get you into all of the above-mentioned sites for 20 Euros. It saves you a few Euros and it will save you waiting in line at the Colosseum, which is worth paying any price! Buy the card at the entrance to the Palatine Hill (near the Forum Romanum). If you don't plan on visiting all of the sites that the card covers, you can still avoid the long line at the Colosseum without purchasing the card. As luck would have it, the regular entrance fee to the Palatine Hill also includes entrance to the Colosseum.

The Baths of Caracalla

Even the ancient Romans had trouble with the heat of Rome in summer. Part of their everyday routine was a visit to the baths to exercise, relax and socialize. There were several very prominent bath complexes located throughout the city, but none are as well-preserved as the Baths of Caracalla. The Baths were completed in 216 CE by 9,000 people working for 5 years under the emperor Caracalla. The grand scale of the arches and communal rooms inspired the architects of the New York firm McKim, Mead and White in their design of the original Penn Station. Today you can visit the Baths from 9:00 am until 1 hour before sunset (on Mondays 9:00 am until 2:00 pm). In the summertime, be sure to catch an outdoor opera performance. In June of 2008 the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma summer season will include George Bizet's Carmen.

Where to Cool Off on a Hot Day in Rome

Let's face it-the heat in Rome can be unbearable at the height of summer. The sun is blinding, the streets are crowded, and your shoes were not made for cobblestones. You are dying for a quiet hour next to the pool. Unfortunately, swimming pools are hard to come by. It's pretty much impossible to find a hotel with a pool in the historic center of Rome. The Cavalieri Hilton hotel has a pool and lovely wooded acres, but it's 3 miles from the center of town-not exactly convenient if you want to stay in the Centro Storico. There is good news, however! For 25 Euros (not cheap-but desperate times call for desperate measures) you can buy your way into a pool in the city for the whole day. The Grand Hotel del Gianicolo, located atop the Gianicolo hill at Viale delle Mura Gianicolense #107, has a lovely pool that is within a short walk from Trastevere. After your swim, have a coffee at one of the nearby cafes, take a stroll past the American Academy, the Aqua Paola and on to Garibaldi Park for a top-notch view of the city! Don't forget your bathing cap-a requirement at Italian pools (and available at the hotel for 5 Euros).

La Cucina Romana (Roman Cuisine)

Are you dreaming of the baked artichoke hearts (carciofi al forno) that you had on your last visit to Rome? What about your favorite Roman risotto? The food of Rome is distinct within Italy, and the Italian restaurants in the U.S. will rarely feature Roman dishes. So you can do the next best thing until you return to Rome-make it yourself! The cookbook Roma: Authentic Recipes from In and Around the Eternal City by Julia della Croce features contemporary recipes from Rome and the region surrounding the city, Lazio. In addition, she provides informative sections on Roman wine, cheese, typical Roman ingredients, and even some restaurant suggestions for your next visit. My favorite recipe, rigatoni with broccoli sauce, uses an unexpected secret ingredient-anchovies!
Roma: Authentic Recipes from In and Around the Eternal City

Two Stationery Shops Near the Pantheon

The Italians are known for their paper. You can visit two cartolerias (stationery shops) on your way from the Pantheon to Giolitti's for gelato. Head north up Via del Pantheon. On your right you will find Il Papiro, a stationery shop with locations all over Italy (and now New York and Los Angeles!). Il Papiro is known for its gorgeous handprinted Art Nouveau and Florentine patterns. They also have a very charming monogram line. If Il Papiro is a little pricey for you, keep walking. On your right, when the street name changes to Via della Maddalena, you will find the Cartoleria al Pantheon. The papers aren't as unique as Il Papiro, but you can find all sorts of goods for your budget. Particularly appealing are the monogram embossers for books and correspondence.

A Taste of Bohemia in Trastevere

On the west bank of the Tiber (Tevere) is a funky neighborhood that often gets overlooked by tourists. Historically the residence of fisherman and foreigners, Trastevere has maintained the crooked narrow cobblestone streets of the Middle Ages. Now it is the home of several universities, students and artists. At night the heart of the neighborhood, Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere (pictured), is filled with Italians and foreigners on their way to dinner, drinks, or just enjoying the atmosphere. You can find many inexpensive restaurants just off Piazza Santa Maria, or you can walk a little further to Il Albino del Sarde on Via della Luce near Piazza Mastai. This Sardinian-style trattoria is located on the quiet side of Trastevere, so you will avoid the crowds and the street vendors. But be sure to stroll into the heart of Trastevere after dinner. You don't want to miss a fascinating people-watching opportunity!

Getty Villa in Malibu, California

If you can't get to Italy but can get to Southern California, don't miss the Getty Villa in Malibu. Recently renovated and completely refurbished, the Getty Villa exclusively houses antiquities from Ancient Greece and Rome. The collections are just half of the attraction. The museum itself is an exact replica of the Villa of the Papyri in Herculaneum which was destroyed in the 79 CE eruption of Mt. Vesuvius. The Villa is decorated with exquisite marble floors, walls, decorative ceilings and immaculate gardens, all inspired by ancient Roman originals from around the Mediterranean. You have to make a reservation to visit the Villa, so be sure to call ahead at least a few weeks in advance. Go as soon as the doors open to avoid the crowds that will be sure to be there by mid-day.
Getty Villa

Antique Prints and Books in Rome

Rome is a rich source for antiques. While shipping home antique Italian furniture may be unrealistic, you can easily bring home antique prints and books to decorate your home. Piazza Fontanella Borghese (just west of the Via del Corso) houses a market full of antique prints and rare books stalls. You can spend hours browsing through thousands of prints, and you won't break the bank when you finally make your choice. The 19th century print above, from Alessandro Ricci's stall, depicts one of the many fountains in Rome, but you will find examples of botanical prints, landscapes, and architecture from all over Europe.

Santa Maria Novella Profumeria

Established in the 17th century in Florence, Santa Maria Novella is one of the oldest perfumeries in the world. Its signature scent was created for Catherine de Medici. Located on Corso del Rinascimento #47 near Piazza Navona in Rome (and just off the Piazza Santa Maria Novella in Florence) the shop is filled with the most delicious, beautifully-packaged scents. The women who work in the store are adorable and so helpful in both Italian and English. Try the violetta and mughetto (lily) perfumes (the two are even better together) and the pomegranate soap.

Day and Night in Campo dei Fiori

Close to the Tiber River is a piazza known for its daily open air market. In Campo dei Fiori (the Field of Flowers) you can buy anything fresh-fruits, vegetable, flowers, even eels. It's the perfect place to pick up a snack or lunch on the go. Surrounding the piazza are a myriad of gelaterias, pizzerias, cafes and restaurants. When the sun goes down, the Campo is the backdrop for a lively Roman nightlife. The restaurants and cafes are filled with Romans and tourists, young and old, all basking in the magical light of Rome at night. Try the pasta puttanesca at Da Sergio at Vicolo delle Grotte #27.

"City Walks: Rome" by Martha Fay

Rome is a city meant to be seen on foot. Unlike many other grand European cities, Rome's layout was not planned. Ancient Rome developed "organically"-as small separate settlements on hills that eventually merged together. During the Renaissance the Romans did very little to change the layout of their city, and to this day many of the streets follow the ancient topography. Many of Rome's greatest sites are inaccessible by car, necessitating good walking shoes, a good map, and the expectation that you will get lost. But don't worry. With City Walks: Rome getting lost is the point. This set of 50 double-sided notecards is ingenious. One side of each card contains a list of must-see sights, cafes and shopping in a particular neighborhood. The other side depicts a map of that neighborhood with a recommended walking route. The cards are all linked so that one picks up where another leaves off. You can take 4 or 5 with you for the day and see all sorts of famous sites-and a few unexpected marvels on the way!
City Walks:Rome

Where to Shop in Rome-High End

Piazza di Spagna is known for its luxury shops like Gucci, Fendi and Prada. There you can find the designer goods that have made Italy famous. In addition to the big names that seem to be in every world-class city, you will also find lesser known but just as luxurious brands like Missoni, Moschino, Alberta Ferretti and Rene Caovilla. How to maximize your American dollar's purchasing power? Wait until JULY. Almost every store in Italy dramatically reduces its prices for the summer Saldi. July is the time to stock up on your designer shoes, bags, apparel, linens (try Frette and Pratesi)-anything and everything. Diverti te!

Christmas in Rome

Winter can be an exciting time to visit Rome, especially during the holidays. The Italians celebrate Christmas in grand style, with decorations (see St. Peter's pictured) and food (especially sweets like biscotti and torrone) unique to the season. Watch out for crowds, however, as all of Italy seems to descend on Rome during this time -and decide to fare un passagiata (take a walk) through the city all at once. Piazza Navona even hosts a special Christmas Market, complete with Santa Claus, a Nativity, and special stalls selling holiday goods. However, shopping thoughout the city can be unpredictable as many shopowners close down between Christmas and New Year's.

"Memoirs of Hadrian" by Marguerite Yourcenar

French writer Marguerite Yourcenar devoted the better part of her adult life to researching and writing the Memoirs of Hadrian, published in 1951. While it is fiction, Yourcenar's intimate writing style and painstaking historical accuracy will convince the reader that he is actually reading the journal and letters of the emperor Hadrian. Hadrian was considered one of the "Good Emperors" of the Roman Empire, and Yourcenar's portrayal of him as thoughtful and idealistic reinforces the portrait that history has painted. Most moving are her depictions of Hadrian's personal relationship with Antinous and the misgivings he felt when embarking upon war.
Memoirs of Hadrian

Capitoline Museum-Recently Remodeled and Better Than Ever

The Capitoline Museum, located on the Campidoglio, a piazza designed by Michelangelo and the site of the religious center of ancient Rome, was revonovated in the first years of the 21st century. The recent renovation has revealed the foundations of the Roman temple of Jupiter Optimus Maximus and has provided access to one of the most spectacular views of the Roman Forum. The original equestrian bronze statue of the emperor Marcus Aurelius is now housed in its own air-conditioned gallery, which protects the delicate bronze from decomposition-and makes the gallery a welcome spot for the weary summer tourist! A copy of the bronze Marcus Aurelius is on display outside in the center of the piazza. Don't forget to visit the fragments of the colossal statue of the emperor Constantine located in the courtyard of the Palazzo dei Conservatori and the famous Capitoline Wolf, the ubiquitous symbol of Rome.
Capitoline Museum

Roman Forum opens every day at 8:30 AM

When visiting Rome, don't be fooled by those who claim that the Forum Romanum opens at 9:00 am. You, no ordinary tourist, now know that the portae open at 8:30. You will have the whole place to yourself-a rarity in the chaos of Rome.

"Augustus" by Anthony Everitt

The emperor Augustus has always been enigmatic. Anthony Everitt attempts to shed light on Augustus the man-his motivations, his relationships, his desires. Alas, even though we have many contemporary accounts of Augustus' life, the dearth of sources who were on intimate terms with the emperor keeps him in the shadows. If you are at all interested in the fall of Republican Rome, then Anthony Everitt's attention to detail will intrigue you. You will find many references to famous Roman writers and even to Augustus' own (impersonal) autobiography, the Res Gestae. My only complaint is the lack of footnotes and citation within the text directing the reader to those ancient authors to learn more. The end of the book does include a source list by chapter for reference.
Augustus

The Mystery of the Pantheon

The Pantheon is the most spectacular ancient building in Rome and the eternal favorite of this writer. On a recent trip to Rome I was amazed by the shaft of light shining through the oculus (eye) in the roof which illuminated the circular dome, walls and floor. On dozens of visits in the past to the site this phenomenon has never revealed itself to me, and yet it was very likely the intention of those who designed it 2,000 years ago. In essence, the oculus functions as a grand sundial, by which the ancients could not only count the hours of the day, but also the passage of the seasons. To see it yourself, aim for mid-afternoon on a clear day, when the sun is brightest in the sky.