Antico Arco on the Gianicolo

Just across from the Porta San Pancrazio on the Gianicolo is Antico Arco, a little jewel of a restaurant. Four unique dining rooms in an historical building offer Roman cuisine with a little bit of Calabria, Sicily and Le Marche thrown in. One of their Roman specialties is pasta all'Amatriciana with pancetta from the Marche region. The restaurant is frequented by members of the American Academy in Rome, which is just around the corner. Antico Arco's wine bar is a lovely place to wait for your table, but be sure to make a reservation as it does get crowded. The restaurant is closed on Sundays. Piazzale Aurelio 7, Tel.065815274.

American Academy in Rome Events

The American Academy in Rome, perched high atop the Gianicolo hill, is an institution devoted to the study of the art, architecture, literature, archaeology and music of ancient and modern Rome. To study there is a great honor and often unattainable by those of us who haven't determined to devote our lives to academia. But when you are in Rome, you are invited to attend events at the Academy. Films, lectures, concerts and exhibits are constantly happening at the Academy-and the good news is they are very likely to be in English! See their events calendar for more details.

Most Romantic Walks in Rome

If you are on your honeymoon or you are just in the mood for romance, you will find unlimited opportunities for charming walks in Rome. The walk from the Galleria Borghese to the Pincio, one of the most famous strolls in Rome, should be done in time to watch the sun go down over St. Peter's (pictured). For you archaeology buffs, a walk on the Palatine Hill will take you out of the crowds and into shady paths with lovely views of the Forum (and some interesting ruins-like the house of the Emperor Augustus- as well). An evening passegiata in Trastevere will inspire you to move to Rome and become a starving artist. Don't miss the Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere and its namesake church, whose 12th century Byzantine mosaics are illuminated at night. If your legs are up to it, head up to Piazzale Garibaldi on the Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill) for the best view of Rome. Don't forget to linger by the Fontana dell'Acqua Paola. And last, if you need to get out of the hustle and bustle of the city for a day, take the train to Ostia Antica. Pack a picnic lunch and wander among the ruins for the afternoon. Be sure to visit the amphitheater, public baths and forum.
Readers: What's your favorite walk in Rome?

Piazzale Garibaldi-The Best Views of Rome?

There are two spectacular parks in Rome which offer panoramic views. The Pincio (near Piazza del Popolo) and Piazzale Garibaldi, on the Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill). From Piazzale Garibaldi not only can you see all of the historic center of Rome to the east-the Pantheon, the Colosseum, the Forum, etc-but to the west you have an incomparable view of the dome of St. Peter's. The piazza, which contains a playground for children and hosts live puppet shows ala Punch and Judy, is dedicated to Giuseppe Garibaldi, the Italian military and political leader who helped unify and liberate Italy in the 19th century. From the piazza it is an easy walk to the Fontanone (the fountain dedicated by Pope Paul V), the American Academy in Rome, and down into Trastevere for food and drink!

A Restaurant With a View-Il Fontanone del Gianicolo

In conjunction with Estate Romana, the Acqua Paola at the top of the Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill) hosts an outdoor restaurant and cocktail bar. Il Fontanone del Gianicolo boasts the best view of the city next to the grand and picturesque fountain built by Pope Paul V. In addition to the food and drink available in summertime, through September 14th TeatroStudio, a Roman performing arts organization, hosts FontanonEstate-live music, theater and poetry on a stage next to the fountain. Summer's almost over, so be sure to catch the restaurant and entertainment this week!

Italian Parks from Budget Travel

Last Friday Budget Travel's blog, "Affordable Europe," listed some parks in Italy that are perfect for walking (a favorite Italian pastime), lounging, picknicking and even watching theatrical and musical performances. Among the many Italian parks listed were two in Rome, the Villa Borghese, which the Modern Traveler has mentioned before, and the Villa Doria Pamphilj, which is located atop the Gianicolo Hill. The park itself is the largest within the city of Rome and contains a Renaissance palazzo surrounded by manicured gardens. Admission to the park is free (as is admission to the Borghese Gardens) but to enter the gallery in the palazzo there is a fee. For more parks in and around Rome, visit the Italian state website, www.parks.it.

Where to Cool Off on a Hot Day in Rome

Let's face it-the heat in Rome can be unbearable at the height of summer. The sun is blinding, the streets are crowded, and your shoes were not made for cobblestones. You are dying for a quiet hour next to the pool. Unfortunately, swimming pools are hard to come by. It's pretty much impossible to find a hotel with a pool in the historic center of Rome. The Cavalieri Hilton hotel has a pool and lovely wooded acres, but it's 3 miles from the center of town-not exactly convenient if you want to stay in the Centro Storico. There is good news, however! For 25 Euros (not cheap-but desperate times call for desperate measures) you can buy your way into a pool in the city for the whole day. The Grand Hotel del Gianicolo, located atop the Gianicolo hill at Viale delle Mura Gianicolense #107, has a lovely pool that is within a short walk from Trastevere. After your swim, have a coffee at one of the nearby cafes, take a stroll past the American Academy, the Aqua Paola and on to Garibaldi Park for a top-notch view of the city! Don't forget your bathing cap-a requirement at Italian pools (and available at the hotel for 5 Euros).