Mausoleum of Costanza

For Roman architecture buffs, there is no better place to experience the excellence of Roman engineering than the Mausoleum of Costanza on the Via Nomentana. The circular temple, built for the emperor Constantine's daughters and later turned into a church, contains a spectacular dome and exquisite mosaics from the 4th century CE. Nearby is the Church of Sant'Agnese which contains extensive catacombs. The mausoleum and catacombs are open daily 9-12 and 2-6, closed Mondays and Sunday and holiday mornings. Be sure to call ahead just in case!

Walk the Walls of Ancient Rome

As you journey around the city, you may notice a high brick wall in several areas, particularly if you are headed south by means of the Appian Way. This wall was begun in the 3rd century CE by the Emperor Aurelian. You can visit a museum dedicated to the study of these walls at the Porta San Sebastiano, the gate from which the Via Appia Antica leaves the city. The exhibit itself includes rooms which were once occupied by Ettore Muti, one of Mussolini's highest-ranking officials, and some mosaics from the Fascist period are still extant. With admission to the museum you can also access the ramparts of the walls. Here you will find a wonderful view of the city, the surrounding hills (Castelli Romani) and the Via Appia. It's a nice, cheap (3 Euros) diversion on your way to visit the catacombs at San Callisto or Santa Domitilla.

Santa Maria della Concezione-The Height of the Macabre

On the Via Veneto is an old Capuchin church built above an underground ossuary (bone depository). The bones of four thousand friars who died in the 17th through 19th centuries have been gathered here and arranged in a mad, macabre decorating scheme. Look closely-those are not mosaics but actually human bones. There is also a Caravaggio of St. Francis in the convent, but let's face it, the bones are the draw. The crypt at Santa Maria della Concezione (Via Veneto 27) is open from 9-12 and 3-6 every day except Thursdays.