Vatican Museums Open from 7-11 pm on July 24

Next Friday, the Vatican Museums will be open from 7:00-11:00 pm (19:00-23:00). These evening hours, the first of their kind for the Vatican, have been in place at several other world-class museums (the Uffizi and the Louvre) and have been a great success. If it goes well on July 24th, this could be a regular occurrence. What a great way to entertain kids and keep cool at night in Rome!

Stay Up Late Reading

What to do if you can't sleep in Rome? Hit Via Veneto Libreria (owned by the local independent chain of bookstores, Arion), which is open until midnight on weekends. The massive store has a coffee shop and a great selection of foreign language books, including English. Yes, you can probably think of 100 things to do at night in Rome, but you never know when you'll need Henry James, do you? Via Veneto 42.

Mocambo Bar in Taormina

To see and be seen is always the top priority in Italy, and Taormina is no different. The best place in Taormina for evening people-watching is the Mocambo Bar in the 9th of April Piazza (Piazza IX Aprile). There's live music every night and the iced tea with lemon granita is a must-have. There's even excellent coffee and wine to be had for 3 Euros a glass. The gelato isn't half bad either. Try it on a brioche, the Sicilian way.

Most Romantic Things to Do at Night in Rome

Nighttime is the most romantic time in Rome. The sounds of traffic are muted, the dusk hides any debris or graffiti that the harsh sunlight illuminates, the streetlights cast a warm glow over the cobblestones, and the busloads of tourists have gone back to their hotels. So what should you and your loved one do with yourselves? Well, after you have a romantic dinner there are a myriad of options. For music lovers, in summer you can head to the Baths of Caracalla for an outdoor opera performance. Aida is always a favorite! In other seasons, the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma always has something spectacular going on. If opera is not your preference, head to the Theater of Marcellus for classical music in the ruins of the ancient theater (through the end of September). While you are in the vicinity of the theater, be sure to take a stroll through the Jewish Ghetto-at night it is so charming. Don't miss the Fontana della Tartarughe in Piazza Mattei. Also near the theater is the Campidoglio (Capitoline Hill) from where you can see the most beautiful view of the Roman Forum at night. Unfortunately the Forum is not open for evening tours. In general, walking around Rome is one of the most romantic evening activities. The Modern Traveler's favorite evening walk is from Trastevere (after a lovely dinner), across the Ponte Sisto, through Piazza Navona and to the Pantheon. Isola Tiberina (Tiber Island) is also a romantic spot for you and your honey to canoodle. And in summer there are cafes and a film festival to entertain you.
Readers: Do you have any suggestions for romantic nighttime activities out and about in Rome?

A Restaurant With a View-Il Fontanone del Gianicolo

In conjunction with Estate Romana, the Acqua Paola at the top of the Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill) hosts an outdoor restaurant and cocktail bar. Il Fontanone del Gianicolo boasts the best view of the city next to the grand and picturesque fountain built by Pope Paul V. In addition to the food and drink available in summertime, through September 14th TeatroStudio, a Roman performing arts organization, hosts FontanonEstate-live music, theater and poetry on a stage next to the fountain. Summer's almost over, so be sure to catch the restaurant and entertainment this week!

La Notte Bianca-September 13

The Modern Traveler has searched and to the best of her ability has determined that White Night will take place on September 13th this year. There has been talk of lack of funding which may make the celebration a bit less grand-but plan on staying up all night with the Romans on September 13th!

Trastevere Nightlife: Stardust Jazz Bar

Years ago when the Modern Traveler was a student in Rome, Trastevere nightlife was irresistible. Today the pubs and clubs that lured MT in the past are still attracting expatriates and locals. The tiny Stardust Jazz Bar on Vicolo dei Renzi satisfies any cravings you may have for live jazz and cocktails. Upstairs you can have tea during the day (and bagels on the weekends!). Downstairs at night is where the live jazz gets heavy-and the rock and reggae!
Readers: Where can you hear the best jazz in Rome?

White Night Rome 2008-La Notte Bianca: What is the date?

Despite the Modern Traveler's continued efforts to find out the details, the specific date of Rome's La Notte Bianca is still uncertain. Does anyone out there know if and when the Roman city officials have decreed the date? The La Notte Bianca website is unfortunately still from 2007... Please comment with internet links, if possible!

White Night Rome-La Notte Bianca

Every year in September, Rome (and other European cities) host an all-night celebration of culture. Museums, sights, galleries, restaurants and shops are open all night, and the streets are filled with performances, music and pedestrians enjoying free entertainment throughout the city. The celebration is for everyone, young and old, Italian and foreign, and must not be missed. To find out more about the programs of the evening, see La Notte Bianca website for details. The official date has not yet been set, so check back frequently.

Bir e Fud in Trastevere: When You're Tired of Wine

It may seem impossible, but you could get tired of the endless array of wine in Italy. When this happens, visit Bir & Fud in Trastevere (Via Benedetta 23), a pub that serves over 100 brands of artisanal Italian beers. The "fud" is actually typical of a high-end pizzeria (delicious), but the "bir" will make you rave. Visit their blog-unfortunately only in Italian-to find out more about events going on at the pub and beers they are enjoying. You can also purchase many of the beers at their bottega, located at Via Luca Valerio in the Marconi neighborhood south of Trastevere.

Pigneto: New/Old Neighborhood in Rome

The April issue of Gourmet Magazine spotlights a little-known neighborhood in Rome: Pigneto, just outside the Porta Maggiore (pictured in this engraving by Piranesi). In the past, Italian film directors used the neighborhood to depict a poor Italian village. Now it has been rediscovered by artists and students-and there are great restaurants and bars for you to visit. Gourmet recommends Bar Necci (Via Fanfulla da Ludi 68) for lots of movie memorabilia and the restaurant Primo (Via del Pigneto 46) for roasted pig and linguine with octopus. The April issue of Gourmet is chock full of all sorts of recipes, restaurant recommendations, and gorgeous pictures from all over Italy.

Tiber Island Attractions

In the middle of the Tiber River is an island once home to a temple to the god of healing, Asklepios. Today the island still is place of medicine, housing a hospital since the 16th century. The relics of Saint Bartholomew who was skinned alive and later became the patron saint of sufferers of skin diseases are actually buried on the island in a church (pictured at right) named for him. The island is more than just a hospital and a church, however. During summer nights there is a cafe with lively music and sometimes a film festival set up on the north end of the island which could provide a diversion on your way to and from Trastevere. There is also a very good restaurant called Sora Lella on the island at Via Ponte Quattro Capi #16.

Antico Caffe della Pace

The streets of Rome smell distinctly like espresso. No wonder, since the coffee in Rome is among the best in the world. As a matter of course, Rome's coffee shops are an experience of their own. There are two ways to enjoy your coffee. If you are in a hurry and want to pay less, go first to the cashier, tell him what you want, pay, then take your receipt to the bar and hand it to the barista. Drink your coffee standing up at the bar. You will feel very Italian. If you are not in a hurry and don't mind paying more, take a seat. A waiter will take your order. Be prepared to spend some time at your table-rarely are the waiters in Rome in a hurry. They'll bring you the bill when they bring your order and expect you to pay then. You can sit there as long as you like. Be sure to use cash for nothing is more annoying (or so it seems, anyway) to a Roman waiter than dealing with credit cards. One particularly special cafe is Antico Caffe della Pace, located at Via della Pace 3/7 near Piazza Navona. Indoors is cozy with wood paneling, outdoors next to the ivy-covered walls is perfect for people watching. At night the cafe becomes more of a bar, with all sorts of stylish Italians filling the tables.

A Taste of Bohemia in Trastevere

On the west bank of the Tiber (Tevere) is a funky neighborhood that often gets overlooked by tourists. Historically the residence of fisherman and foreigners, Trastevere has maintained the crooked narrow cobblestone streets of the Middle Ages. Now it is the home of several universities, students and artists. At night the heart of the neighborhood, Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere (pictured), is filled with Italians and foreigners on their way to dinner, drinks, or just enjoying the atmosphere. You can find many inexpensive restaurants just off Piazza Santa Maria, or you can walk a little further to Il Albino del Sarde on Via della Luce near Piazza Mastai. This Sardinian-style trattoria is located on the quiet side of Trastevere, so you will avoid the crowds and the street vendors. But be sure to stroll into the heart of Trastevere after dinner. You don't want to miss a fascinating people-watching opportunity!

Day and Night in Campo dei Fiori

Close to the Tiber River is a piazza known for its daily open air market. In Campo dei Fiori (the Field of Flowers) you can buy anything fresh-fruits, vegetable, flowers, even eels. It's the perfect place to pick up a snack or lunch on the go. Surrounding the piazza are a myriad of gelaterias, pizzerias, cafes and restaurants. When the sun goes down, the Campo is the backdrop for a lively Roman nightlife. The restaurants and cafes are filled with Romans and tourists, young and old, all basking in the magical light of Rome at night. Try the pasta puttanesca at Da Sergio at Vicolo delle Grotte #27.