Christmas in Rome: Where to Go, What to Eat

National Geographic's Intelligent Traveler Blog is celebrating Christmas all over the world. With recommendations from locals and experts, the most authentic ways to experience the season are now in your grasp. Among their recommendations are the Christmas market in Piazza Navona, the hundreds of nativity scenes in every church around the city (St. Peter's pictured), Christmas Mass in St. Peter's, and eating roasted chestnuts and panettone. The Modern Traveler also suggests panforte, an Italian riff on fruitcake (and naturally a thousand times better!). If you can't get to Rome to try it, Whole Foods always sells it!

David Lynch's Wine Bar Picks

Mario Batali's famous Manhattan restaurant, Babbo, is well-known not only for its terrific food, but also for its impeccable wine selection. That wine selection is thanks to David Lynch, Babbo's wine director. Lynch is an expert on Italian wines and naturally has a few favorite wine bars to visit in Rome. He includes Cul de Sac, the quintessential enoteca just off the Piazza Navona. But he recommends several more wine bars in almost every neighborhood in Rome. In the Prati (north of the Vatican) he touts Del Frate not only for its wines but also for its cheese selection. In Trastevere, trendy Ferrara is the place to visit for an "encyclopedic" wine list. If you are looking for something a little more low-key, try L'Angolo Divino just off Campo dei Fiori. Salud!

Wine Bars in Rome

If you are looking for a terrific wine selection and delicious food that is often quite reasonable, try a wine bar (or enoteca). In recent years, many of Rome's wine shops have expanded and now serve small plates and full meals to accompany wine tastings. You can often reserve a table ahead of time, which is rare in Rome. Cul de Sac is the enoteca of choice-located near Piazza Navona, it consistently gets the best ratings and has great atmosphere. For more recommendations from insiders, see Starklandcellars and katieparla.

Scuola Leonardo da Vinci: Study Italian in Rome

This month's Travel and Leisure features language schools around the world. In Italy, with locations in Florence, Rome, Siena and Milan, they recommend Scuola Leonardo da Vinci. The Scuola not only offers language classes ranging from two to 24 weeks, but also offers cultural classes in music and art history, among other topics. The Scuola in Rome is located at Piazza dell'Orologio, which is not far from Piazza Navona and Campo dei Fiori.

Students Protest Education Reform in Piazza Navona

Education reforms passed by the right-wing parliament had students protesting and clashing all over Italy today. A conflict erupted in Piazza Navona as right-wing and liberal groups picked up cafe chairs and threw them at opponents. Four people were treated for injuries. The education reforms may include budget cuts for university programs as well as instituting codes of conduct in elementary schools.

Most Romantic Things to Do at Night in Rome

Nighttime is the most romantic time in Rome. The sounds of traffic are muted, the dusk hides any debris or graffiti that the harsh sunlight illuminates, the streetlights cast a warm glow over the cobblestones, and the busloads of tourists have gone back to their hotels. So what should you and your loved one do with yourselves? Well, after you have a romantic dinner there are a myriad of options. For music lovers, in summer you can head to the Baths of Caracalla for an outdoor opera performance. Aida is always a favorite! In other seasons, the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma always has something spectacular going on. If opera is not your preference, head to the Theater of Marcellus for classical music in the ruins of the ancient theater (through the end of September). While you are in the vicinity of the theater, be sure to take a stroll through the Jewish Ghetto-at night it is so charming. Don't miss the Fontana della Tartarughe in Piazza Mattei. Also near the theater is the Campidoglio (Capitoline Hill) from where you can see the most beautiful view of the Roman Forum at night. Unfortunately the Forum is not open for evening tours. In general, walking around Rome is one of the most romantic evening activities. The Modern Traveler's favorite evening walk is from Trastevere (after a lovely dinner), across the Ponte Sisto, through Piazza Navona and to the Pantheon. Isola Tiberina (Tiber Island) is also a romantic spot for you and your honey to canoodle. And in summer there are cafes and a film festival to entertain you.
Readers: Do you have any suggestions for romantic nighttime activities out and about in Rome?

Most Romantic Restaurants in Rome

If you plan to honeymoon in Rome, there are a few restaurants that you must explore. For a splurge, try L'altro Mastai near Piazza Navona. The chef was trained at the highly acclaimed La Pergola (at the Rome Cavalieri Hilton) and the tasting menu, ambience and service will make you swoon. For a more picturesque experience, Giggeto al Portico d'Ottavia in the Jewish Ghetto brings you face to face with the ruins of the Theater of Marcellus and the Portico Octavia while you enjoy traditional Roman-Jewish fare. If you prefer a more Bohemian atmosphere, try Sabatini in Piazza Santa Maria (pictured) in Trastevere. Not exactly a quiet romantic spot, but the heady combination of good food, people watching and the view of the piazza and its namesake 12th century church will certainly put the Roman into your romance.
Readers: What's your favorite romantic restaurant in Rome?

Guided Tours of the Stadium of Domitian by Night

Underneath Piazza Navona are the foundations of the Stadium of the Emperor Domitian. These foundations actually provide the racetrack shape of the present-day piazza. On Sunday, August 24th, you can go beneath the piazza and see the remnants of the stadium for yourself. This rare guided tour begins at 8:00 pm and costs 5 Euros. To reserve tickets individually or for groups call 06 4391597; 339 1998481; 349 7820922 or email artable@libero.it. The tours meet at Piazza di Tor Sanguigna 13. See the Estate Romana (Roman Summer) website for more details.

L'Insalata Ricca-Casual Dining in the Heart of the Historic Center

L'Insalata Ricca, just off the Via Vittorio Emanuele near Campo dei Fiori in Largo dei Chiavari is the perfect spot for a healthy lunch during your busy day in Rome. They have an extensive menu of big salads and easy pastas all for a reasonable price (really!). You can sit outside and enjoy people watching while you dine as well. They have several locations throughout the city, including another very close site at Piazza Pasquino near Piazza Navona. They are the perfect restaurants for tourists on a budget, students in a hurry, and anyone who likes simple, delicious food. Try the Insalata Capricciosa-arugula, feta, olives and corn!

Caravaggio in Rome

It is possible to enjoy the works of the great master Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio (the other Michelangelo) without paying museum entrance fees. Three churches house several of the painters works and all are free to visitors. At Santa Maria del Popolo (in Piazza del Popolo) you can see The Crucifixion of St. Peter and The Conversion of St. Paul. The Church of San Luigi dei Francesi, near Piazza Navona, has three Caravaggios dedicated to St. Matthew. Also next to Piazza Navona is the church of Sant'Augostino whose facade is made of travertine from the Colosseum. Inside you can see the Madonna of the Pilgrims (pictured), which is remarkable for its realistic portrayal of common people. Caravaggio is known for his heightened use of shadows and light (chiaroscuro) and was once a pupil of the great Venetian painter, Titian. At one point, Caravaggio was the most renowned painter in Rome.

Ways to Save Euros: Antipasti

Food in Rome is diverse, exciting, and can actually be had for a decent price, even in the most popular areas. If you are in Piazza di Spagna and are in the mood for a light lunch, head over to Ristorante alla Rampa (Piazza Mignanelli 18) for an array of antipasti choices such as fried zucchini flowers and prosciutto with melon. A large plate of assorted antipasti can be had for 9 Euros. Add a small bottle of wine and your meal (of appetizers) will be complete. Make sure you go early in the day, as it tends to fill up in the early evening. Another choice for antipasti is L'Orso 80 (Via dell'Orso 33 near Piazza Navona).

Travel and Leisure Suggests Gelato

In the "Ask Travel and Leisure" section of the magazine's July 2008 issue, a reader wants to know where the best gelato in Rome is. Well, we all know that pretty much anywhere in Italy has great gelato. But some places have a serious following. Travel and Leisure recommends (based on food expert Faith Willinger's picks) Il Gelato di San Crispino located at the Basilica di San Giovanni (56 Via Acaia) and also near the Trevi Fountain (42 Via della Panetteria). For tartufo, a chocolate gelato masterpiece, head to Tre Scalini in Piazza Navona (#30-35).

Elle Magazine Interviews Designer Erin Bazos About Her Rome Favorites

Erin Bazos, a designer at the Hanger Design Group in New York City, was a long-time resident of Rome. The July issue of Elle Magazine (unfortunately not on-line) interviews her about her top spots in Rome for shopping, dining and living. Included in her recommendations are the Hotel Teatro Pace near Piazza Navona (pictured), avant garde clothing at Luna & L'altra (Piazza Pasquino 76 near Via del Governo Vecchio), and organic groceries and health foods at Albero del Pane (Via di. Santa Maria del Pianto, 19, in the Jewish Ghetto). Stay tuned for her restaurant recommendations.

More Hip Shopping on the Via del Governo Vecchio

Near Piazza Navona is a shopping district that many tourists do not visit-or at least, if they do, they are in the minority. The Romans themselves still very much possess the Via del Governo Vecchio. For all the best international designers, visit Josephine de Huertas and Co. (pictured), at three locations in the vicinity. Arsenale, opened ten years ago (64 Via del Governo Vecchio), is known for its unique silks and interesting embellishment. This year, Arsenale's designer, Patrizia Pieroni, is featuring bright colors and flower appliques reminiscent of the 1970s flower-child movement. For more on restaurants and hotels in this neighborhood, see a recent article in Travel and Leisure.

Readers: What's your favorite shopping district in Rome?

Hotel Raphael

Just behind the Piazza Navona is a classic, the Hotel Raphael. Moderately priced for Rome in the low season (rates start at 250 Euros) and more expensive in the high season (450 Euros) the Raphael is famous for its museum-quality art collection, Richard Meier designed rooms on the third floor, and rooftop restaurant and garden with views of the entire historic district. You will certainly enjoy walking out of your hotel to cafes, restaurants, shopping and sights all in the heart of Rome.

Via del Governo Vecchio-Hip Shopping near Piazza Navona

If you are not into the big-name designer shops around Piazza di Spagna and you are looking for a more avant-garde experience, take a stroll down Via del Governo Vecchio near the Piazza Navona. You'll find unique clothing stores from Italian and international designers, funky jewelry, trendy leather goods and even vintage apparel shops. You'll avoid the major crowds and certainly discover something entirely new. There are also a few restaurants and cafes with which you can restore yourself after the sensory overload that you'll experience. The famous Antico Caffe della Pace is just around the corner (head north on Via di Parione). Diverti te!

Antico Caffe della Pace

The streets of Rome smell distinctly like espresso. No wonder, since the coffee in Rome is among the best in the world. As a matter of course, Rome's coffee shops are an experience of their own. There are two ways to enjoy your coffee. If you are in a hurry and want to pay less, go first to the cashier, tell him what you want, pay, then take your receipt to the bar and hand it to the barista. Drink your coffee standing up at the bar. You will feel very Italian. If you are not in a hurry and don't mind paying more, take a seat. A waiter will take your order. Be prepared to spend some time at your table-rarely are the waiters in Rome in a hurry. They'll bring you the bill when they bring your order and expect you to pay then. You can sit there as long as you like. Be sure to use cash for nothing is more annoying (or so it seems, anyway) to a Roman waiter than dealing with credit cards. One particularly special cafe is Antico Caffe della Pace, located at Via della Pace 3/7 near Piazza Navona. Indoors is cozy with wood paneling, outdoors next to the ivy-covered walls is perfect for people watching. At night the cafe becomes more of a bar, with all sorts of stylish Italians filling the tables.

Santa Maria Novella Profumeria

Established in the 17th century in Florence, Santa Maria Novella is one of the oldest perfumeries in the world. Its signature scent was created for Catherine de Medici. Located on Corso del Rinascimento #47 near Piazza Navona in Rome (and just off the Piazza Santa Maria Novella in Florence) the shop is filled with the most delicious, beautifully-packaged scents. The women who work in the store are adorable and so helpful in both Italian and English. Try the violetta and mughetto (lily) perfumes (the two are even better together) and the pomegranate soap.

Christmas in Rome

Winter can be an exciting time to visit Rome, especially during the holidays. The Italians celebrate Christmas in grand style, with decorations (see St. Peter's pictured) and food (especially sweets like biscotti and torrone) unique to the season. Watch out for crowds, however, as all of Italy seems to descend on Rome during this time -and decide to fare un passagiata (take a walk) through the city all at once. Piazza Navona even hosts a special Christmas Market, complete with Santa Claus, a Nativity, and special stalls selling holiday goods. However, shopping thoughout the city can be unpredictable as many shopowners close down between Christmas and New Year's.