White Night Rome 2008-La Notte Bianca: What is the date?

Despite the Modern Traveler's continued efforts to find out the details, the specific date of Rome's La Notte Bianca is still uncertain. Does anyone out there know if and when the Roman city officials have decreed the date? The La Notte Bianca website is unfortunately still from 2007... Please comment with internet links, if possible!

Valentino: The Last Emperor

The Venice Film Festival was the site of the premiere of a new documentary about the life of fashion designer Valentino Garavani. Valentino retired last year but his designs are still going strong-and so is his influence. Rome, of course, hosted his retirement party last summer in full glory, with a retrospective of his designs in the Ara Pacis Museum (pictured) and a stunning party at the Villa Borghese. This fall, from September 3rd through September 10, Samsung is hosting a digital exhibition of Valentino's works during New York City's Fashion Week called "The Red Thread: The Inspiration and Passion of Valentino." There you can also see sneak preview footage of the new documentary, "Valentino: The Last Emperor."

Madonna in Rome September 6

As part of Estate Romana (Roman Summer) and the Sticky and Sweet tour, Madonna will be performing in Rome at the Piazzale Stadio Olympico on September 6. Gates open at 7:00 pm! Buy tickets here (starting at 69 Euros).

Egypt in Rome at the Castel Sant'Angelo

Until October 28 the Castel Sant'Angelo will host an exhibition linking two of the greatest civilizations of all time-Egypt and Rome. The exhibit focuses on the influence that Egypt and her artifacts had on the art, architecture and culture of the city of Rome. "L'Egitto a Roma dalla storia al mito" (Egypt to Rome through the story of myth) will shed light on the Egyptian obelisks and deities visible throughout Rome.

A Restaurant with a View-Mirabelle at the Hotel Splendide Royal

If you are looking to spend a LOT of money (yes-250 Euros per person) you could do no wrong at Mirabelle at the Hotel Splendide Royal on the Via Veneto. The views from this restaurant are spectacular-the Villa Medici, the Pincio, the Vatican. The food is excellent as well. If 250 Euros per person seems a bit steep (and with the US dollar still weak, it certainly does seem steep) settle for a drink at the American Bar Mirabelle. There are a few tables on the terrace for patrons. The drinks won't be cheap-but definitely more affordable than dinner!
Readers: Which restaurant has the best view in Rome?

Low Airfare to Rome in January

If you're anything like the Modern Traveler (and my guess is you are) you are always planning your next trip to Rome. A recent search on United found a $615 airfare from JFK to Rome (through Washington DC) for January 14-21 of 2009. It's definitely not too early to start planning a winter trip to Rome. And remember-the crowds will be gone-you'll have the whole place to yourself!

Roman Nights at the Theater of Marcellus

As part of Estate Romana (Roman Summer) the Theater of Marcellus is host to a number of theatrical and musical performances. This week you can hear Liszt, Bach, Beethoven, Haydn, Chopin and Brahms all performed live starting at 8:30 pm. If you arrive at 8:00 pm you will receive a tour of the archaeological ruins of the Theater as well. See the website for details. Tickets are 15 Euros for the concert and tour.

Guided Tours of the Stadium of Domitian by Night

Underneath Piazza Navona are the foundations of the Stadium of the Emperor Domitian. These foundations actually provide the racetrack shape of the present-day piazza. On Sunday, August 24th, you can go beneath the piazza and see the remnants of the stadium for yourself. This rare guided tour begins at 8:00 pm and costs 5 Euros. To reserve tickets individually or for groups call 06 4391597; 339 1998481; 349 7820922 or email artable@libero.it. The tours meet at Piazza di Tor Sanguigna 13. See the Estate Romana (Roman Summer) website for more details.

A Restaurant With A View-The Cafe Atop the Capitoline Museum

The Capitoline Museum should not be missed. Nor should the cafe atop the museum, which affords the visitor a lovely view of Rome's domes and a welcome break from the madness below. The cafe is situated upon a terrace populated with trees and greenery. You won't ever want to leave this beautiful spot.

Whose Statue is that in the Campo dei Fiori?

The Dominican friar Giordano Bruno was burned alive as a heretic in Campo dei Fiori in 1600. The Catholic Church condemned him to this horrific death because of his radical philosophical beliefs-that the sun was the center of our circle of planets and that the universe was unlimited in its evolution. This belief, of course, contradicted the Church's assertion that the universe was created by a single deity. Galileo's discoveries 16 years later supported Bruno's beliefs, but when Galileo appeared before the Grand Inquisitor he caved in. Bruno never recanted his beliefs and paid the price. When the statue in Campo dei Fiori was erected in 1889, the Catholic Church still refused to recognize Bruno's ideas and to this day the Vatican expresses only a little regret for the friar's fate. A recent article in the New Yorker reviews a new biography of his life by Ingrid Rowland-" Giordano Bruno:Philosopher/Heretic."

White Night Rome-La Notte Bianca

Every year in September, Rome (and other European cities) host an all-night celebration of culture. Museums, sights, galleries, restaurants and shops are open all night, and the streets are filled with performances, music and pedestrians enjoying free entertainment throughout the city. The celebration is for everyone, young and old, Italian and foreign, and must not be missed. To find out more about the programs of the evening, see La Notte Bianca website for details. The official date has not yet been set, so check back frequently.

L'Insalata Ricca-Casual Dining in the Heart of the Historic Center

L'Insalata Ricca, just off the Via Vittorio Emanuele near Campo dei Fiori in Largo dei Chiavari is the perfect spot for a healthy lunch during your busy day in Rome. They have an extensive menu of big salads and easy pastas all for a reasonable price (really!). You can sit outside and enjoy people watching while you dine as well. They have several locations throughout the city, including another very close site at Piazza Pasquino near Piazza Navona. They are the perfect restaurants for tourists on a budget, students in a hurry, and anyone who likes simple, delicious food. Try the Insalata Capricciosa-arugula, feta, olives and corn!

Elsa Morante-A New Biography

Brilliant Roman writer Elsa Morante led a life that some people only read about. Born in Rome, half Jewish, she married well-known author Alberto Moravia and spent part of World War II hiding in the mountains from the Germans who occupied Rome. Her circle of friends included famous Italian actress Anna Magnani and director Bernardo Bertolucci. A new biography of her life, Woman of Rome: A Life of Elsa Morante by Lily Tuck, whose own father knew Morante well, explores not only the chronological events of Morante's life, but also pays close attention to details such as Morante's style and conversational wit. Read more about the book in the August issue of Vogue (unfortunately not on-line) and in a recent LA Times article.

ReidsGuides.com-Favorite Hotels

Reid Bramblett, a Frommer's Travel Guides writer and travel expert, has his own website devoted to insider's travel tips. ReidsGuides.com will help you plan your trip, inspire you to travel, and save you tons of cash along the way. Of particular interest to the Modern Traveler are his hotel picks. Several of them, like the Hotel Aventino, Hotel San Anselmo, Hotel Raphael (pictured)and Albergo Abruzzi are also favorites of this blog. The rest of Reid's choices must be worth looking into indeed!
Readers: Which hotel in Rome is your favorite?

Budget Travel Interviews Reid Bramblett from Frommer's

Budget Travel outlines some of Frommer's writer Reid Bramblett's tips for making travel in Italy affordable. He recommends looking for other lodging besides hotels like campgrounds and monasteries, comparing car rental prices with AutoEurope.com, and trying Italian villages which have been turned into hotels (alberghidiffusi.it). You can also see his own website for recommendations at ReidsGuides.com.

3 Ways to Save Euros in Rome

The key to saving money on museums, archaeological sites, and transportation in Rome is to purchase "city cards" from the city of Rome. Budget Travel outlines how you can save using three different packages.
1. The Roma Pass (20 Euros) gets you into two museums/sites and discounts at various other sites and events and unlimited entry on buses and metros for three days.
2. The Roma Piu Pass (25 Euros) also offers the above perks but expands into regional trains and buses.
3. The Roma Archaeologia Card (22 Euros) gets you into an extensive list of ancient sites for seven days.
Budget Travel reminds you that many sites are closed on Mondays, so plan ahead.

English Language Bookstores in Trastevere

The Almost Corner Bookstore in Trastevere (Via del Moro 45) is the place to pick up English language novels, guidebooks and publications. The people working at the store are so helpful and ready to have a friendly chat. For used books in English and other languages, visit the Open Door Bookshop on Via della Lungaretta 23 on the other side of the Viale Trastevere (pictured). The atmosphere is everything you'd expect of a used bookstore-and even more so because it's in Rome!

"Lavinia" by Ursula K. Le Guin

The story of Rome's origins goes farther back than Romulus and Remus, the twins who were suckled by a she-wolf and eventually founded the city. The legend of Rome extends all the way back to the Trojan War and to Aeneas, a Trojan who escaped the fall of Troy and sailed to Italy to establish a new home for his people. Vergil wrote Aeneas' story in his great epic, the Aeneid. But he only touches on the union that made Aeneas' settlement in Italy possible-his marriage to the daughter of the King of the Latins, Lavinia. Lavinia is a cipher in Roman history and legend, but without her Rome never would have been. Ursula K. Le Guin, who is known for fantasy, writes an account of Lavinia's life in prose that reads more like a poem and fiction that is so well-written that it seems like autobiography. If you are a lover of mythology and heroes, you will enjoy Lavinia immensely.

Restaurant Recommendations from Elle Magazine

A few months ago, Elle Magazine interviewed longtime Rome resident Erin Bazos about her insider favorites in Rome. Unfortunately the article is not on-line, but The Modern Traveler is happy to pass on her restaurant recommendations. On the Via della Pace is Chiostro del Bramante, a combination art gallery/bookstore/caffetteria which serves sandwiches, salads, wine and coffee surrounded by art on loan from museums. The cafe is attached to a cloister (pictured) designed by the brilliant architect Donato Bramante in 1504. On the lighter side, head to Zaza at Piazza Sant'Eustachio 49 for pizza with exceptional dough.

The Domus Aurea-Nero's Golden House

The emperor Nero built an extraordinary palace in Rome after a great fire destroyed many of its neighborhoods in 64 CE. The palace covered nearly 200 acres and was so spacious that the emperor set a 35 meter tall bronze statue of himself in the vestibule. It is from this colossal statue that the Colosseum derives its name, for the emperor Vespasian demolished parts of the palace and in its place erected his own amphitheater near the statue (and redesigned the statue as Apollo). During the Renaissance, amateur explorers and archaeologists found their way into the debris filled underground rooms of what remained of the palace. They found frescoes and mosaics covering the walls and floors which inspired the grotesque motifs of Renaissance decor. You can discover for yourself the power of Nero's artistic inspirations, as several rooms of the palace were opened to the public a few years ago. These rooms are located on the Oppian Hill, across the street from the Colosseum. Reservations are obligatory and can be made by phone or on-line. See the RomaTurismo website for opening hours and details.

More Day Trips from Rome: Orvieto

Just 90 minutes from Rome is the hillside medieval town of Orvieto. Once the refuge for popes when Rome was threatened, this tiny town boasts a huge Gothic cathedral. The town is perched on a huge cliff made of volcanic rock and is accessible by tram car. The site has been populated since the time of the Etruscans and there is a museum there devoted to the study of these ancient people. The wines and ceramics of Orvieto are well-known, so be sure to sample both while you are visiting. To get there from Rome take the A1 toward Florence or one of several trains a day that leave from Roma Termini.