Thursday, May 29, 2008

Day Trips from Rome: Lake Nemi's Festival of Strawberries

On June 7th and 8th of this year, the town of Nemi (named for the volcanic lake upon which it is perched) celebrates the Sagra delle Fragole, or Festival of Strawberries. The weekend will feature all kinds of events surrounding the folklore of the wild strawberry in the region, with music, parades and free strawberries in the piazza for all who come. The town is located southeast of Rome in the Alban Hills and is not only known for its strawberries but also as the location of an ancient shrine to Diana, the goddess of the forest. Lake Nemi was home to a luxurious floating temple of Diana built by the emperor Caligula. This floating temple was discovered by archaeologists and enshrined in a museum in the 1930s. Unfortunately, when the Nazis left Rome they burned the museum and the ancient ship. The museum was rebuilt and many of the preserved artifacts can be visited today.

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Low Airfare to Rome in August

You'll be hard -pressed to find a low airfare to Rome for the next two months. But a recent search on United.com brought up an airfare for $1,010.70 from San Francisco to Rome with 1 stop in Washington DC. The flight leaves August 18th and returns September 9th, so if you are not bound by school schedules and can take some serious time off, go for it! The high season will be at an end as well, so you can take advantage of lower hotel rates and fewer crowds while still enjoying the Mediterranean summer. The same itinerary is $991.70 from LAX and $954.30 from JFK.

Sunday, May 25, 2008

Bir e Fud in Trastevere: When You're Tired of Wine

It may seem impossible, but you could get tired of the endless array of wine in Italy. When this happens, visit Bir & Fud in Trastevere (Via Benedetta 23), a pub that serves over 100 brands of artisanal Italian beers. The "fud" is actually typical of a high-end pizzeria (delicious), but the "bir" will make you rave. Visit their blog-unfortunately only in Italian-to find out more about events going on at the pub and beers they are enjoying. You can also purchase many of the beers at their bottega, located at Via Luca Valerio in the Marconi neighborhood south of Trastevere.

Estate Romana 2008: "Roman Summer" Entertainment

Every summer Rome comes to life with a festival of music, performances, sports and exhibitions. Most of the events are outdoors and often feature famous performers. This summer Ben Harper, Duran Duran and Madonna will all be making appearances in Rome at various venues. Classical music is also a big draw, with opera performed at the Baths of Caracalla and other sites. Estate Romana (Estate means "summer" in Italian) takes place from June 1st through September.

2009-Alfa Romeo Returns to the US

Alfa Romeo is planning a comeback to the American market with a sexy sports car called the 8C Competizione. The car, manufactured at the Maserati plant in Italy, will be sold through Maserati dealerships for a starting price of $200,000! This car will only be available in a limited run (about 50) but Alfa Romeo is hoping that the model will inspire interest in the brand. They plan to introduce three additional lower-priced cars in 2009, the Alfa Romeo Spider (convertible), a mid-sized sedan and SUV. Alfas, like many European cars, run on diesel engines which tend to earn better gas mileage. Alfa Romeo has not sold cars in the U.S. since 1995, but there are brand enthusiasts nationwide who will certainly welcome its return.

Saturday, May 17, 2008

"Blue Guide Rome": All You'll Ever Need to Know about Art, Art History and Archaeology

The Blue Guide Rome is a classic. You will not find extensive information about hotels, restaurants and shopping. But you will find everything there is to know about the sights you are seeing. This book is not for throwing into your knapsack and quickly thumbing through to get around. You will use this book to research the sites and sights you want to visit before you get to Rome, during your visit (e.g. while you are visiting the the Basilica of San Clemente and you want to know about the mosaics and excavations in the catacombs, but you don't have a tour guide), and after your visit- to savor the experience. The Blue Guide also provides over 25 suggested walks, with detailed narrative and must-see stops, that could each take up to half a day. This is a book you will want to keep forever, long after your trip is over.

Sunday, May 11, 2008

Museo Barracco-Antiquities from Around the World

Italian nobleman and archaeologist, Giovanni Barracco, donated his personal collection of antiquities to the city of Rome in the early 20th century. Included in this collection are Egyptian artifacts from 3000 BCE to the Roman period, and Mesopotamian, Cypriot, Greek and Roman objects. Sculpture is the focus of the collection, which Barracco deemed "the mother of all the arts." Today the collection is housed in the Museo Barracco at the Palazzo Farnesina, built in 1523, a lovely example of Renaissance architecture. The museum is located on Corso Vittorio Emmanuele at Via dei Baullari in the vicinity of Campo dei Fiori, the Pantheon, and Largo Argentina and is closed on Mondays.

Andrea Bocelli in Carmen at the Teatro dell'Opera

On June 17th, George Bizet's Carmen will open at The Teatro dell'Opera. Andrea Bocelli will be performing as Don Jose on opening night! Tickets start at 26 Euros and this performance is almost sold out! Buy tickets here or go to the Baths of Caracalla ticket office. The Teatro dell'Opera is located at Piazza Beniamino Gigli, not far from the Piazza Barberini.

More Hip Shopping on the Via del Governo Vecchio

Near Piazza Navona is a shopping district that many tourists do not visit-or at least, if they do, they are in the minority. The Romans themselves still very much possess the Via del Governo Vecchio. For all the best international designers, visit Josephine de Huertas and Co. (pictured), at three locations in the vicinity. Arsenale, opened ten years ago (64 Via del Governo Vecchio), is known for its unique silks and interesting embellishment. This year, Arsenale's designer, Patrizia Pieroni, is featuring bright colors and flower appliques reminiscent of the 1970s flower-child movement. For more on restaurants and hotels in this neighborhood, see a recent article in Travel and Leisure.

Readers: What's your favorite shopping district in Rome?

Sunday, May 4, 2008

12 Ways to Save Money in Rome from Fodor's

Fodors.com has an article on how to save money in Rome based on reader's tips. Some of the suggestions are very practical, such as taking the local train from Fiumicino Airport to the city instead of the Express. The local will drop you off closer to the neighborhood of your hotel and you will avoid the crowds at Termini, Rome's main station. You'll also save 5 Euros-which you can spend on gelato! Other tips are unexpected, like taking a boat trip down the Tiber River to Tiber Island for 1 Euro as a scenic way to get from St. Peter's to the Forum!

Apartment Rentals in Rome-Save Your Euros!

The Modern Traveler has always advocated renting an apartment as an economical way to enjoy Rome. At this stage, with one US dollar buying you .64 Euros, it pays to look for ways to save a few Euros. A great website for finding apartment rentals in the historic center of Rome is Sleep in Italy. You'll find great photos, lengthy descriptions of the apartments and their neighborhoods, and clear ideas of the prices. My advice is to book early-the best ones may already be taken for this summer!

Children's Clothing in Rome: Rachele near Campo dei Fiori

You'll definitely have to work to find this little shop nestled between Via dei Cappellari and Via del Pellegrino just off the Campo dei Fiori, but it's worth it. Here you'll find clothes for newborns to 9-year olds, all designed and handmade by the Scandinavian owner, Rachele. Everything is colorful, practical, and even whimsical-especially the crocheted hats with fanciful themes like strawberries. Rachele is located at Vicolo del Bollo 6/7 and is closed on Sundays. (Photo taken from the Civilized Shopper's Guide to Rome).

Saturday, April 26, 2008

Sebastiano del Piombo at the Palazzo Venezia

Until May 18th, the Museo Palazzo Venezia (via del Plebiscito 118) is holding an exhibition of the Renaissance Venetian painter, Sebastiano Luciani, known as "del Piombo." Rival to Michelangelo and Raphael, del Piombo spent many of his most productive years in Rome and the city is adorned with many of his works. While you are at the Palazzo Venezia, be sure to visit the "Secret Garden" of Pope Paul II.

Tuesday, April 22, 2008

Cooking School at Renato e Luisa

Not far from the Campo dei Fiori and Largo Argentina is a restaurant that specializes in traditional Roman fare-and teaches anyone willing to learn how to make it! Renato e Luisa (Via dei Barbieri 25) is run by Renato Astrologo, a native Roman who learned the meat business from his butcher father. Renato has taken many of the old-fashioned Roman recipes and lightened them up for today's lifestyle. You can find out how to do the same on your next visit to Rome by emailing him at info@renatoeluisa.it. See a recent article in Tastes of Italia magazine for a personal account of the cooking lessons.

Trains in Italy

As you may be aware, driving in Italy is not for the faint-hearted. Unless you are going to a villa in Tuscany or to the remote countryside, you should probably avoid cars altogether. You will certainly not want a car in Rome-there is nowhere to park it and you can't even drive in the historic center without a special residential permit. Stick to trains. The Italian government has an extensive website for its train system, Trenitalia. Here you can purchase tickets, find up-to-date schedules (that may or may not correspond to when the trains actually arrive and depart!), and special deals. Currently Trenitalia is focusing on Smart Price, a promotion offering tickets around Europe starting at 15 Euros. Buon Viaggio!

Sunday, April 20, 2008

Chic Retreat in Rome

The Casa Howard Guest House in Rome is a 10 room hotel in two locations near the Spanish Steps. The hotel is really more like a private residence, decorated with antiques and family heirlooms. Each location has a Turkish Hammam (bath) to help you wash off the day upon your return from sightseeing. 3 of the rooms at the Via Capo Le Case location do not have en-suite bathrooms (the White, Blue and Chinese rooms) but your bathroom is just next to your room and is private, much like in a real residence. The room rates start at 180 Euros in the low season and 220 in the high season. The hotel is part of the Chic Retreats group which specializes in luxurious boutique hotels with less than 30 rooms.

Saturday, April 19, 2008

Rome at Night

Ian Fisher, the chief of the New York Times bureau in Rome, has a wonderful article on the attractions of the Eternal City at night. He suggests after-hours Vatican tours, outdoor musical performances, restaurants with a view of the ruins, and must-see piazzas and fountains illuminated at night. The Modern Traveler has always been a firm advocate of Rome after dark, especially in the warmer months. There truly is something magical about the gentle summer air and the golden glow of the light in the piazzas.

Via Appia-A Sore Spot for Roman Archaeologists

The Via Appia, the ancient road leading from Rome to Brinidisi, is lined with tombs, villas and all sorts of archaeological attractions. But modern Romans seem to be more interested in exploiting the ruins to make money than preserving them for posterity. Ruins have been turned into restaurants and banquet halls and are subject to vandalism on a nightly basis. Yet the Via Appia is a national park, protected by Italian laws, and truly a fascinating escape for the visitor. There are ancient tombs, catacombs, villas (like the Villa of the Quintili, pictured) and bath complexes lining the road in a park-like setting. See a recent New York Times article to read more about the issues facing this valuable historical resource.

Thursday, April 17, 2008

Alitalia in Trouble

Dozens of articles in the past few weeks have highlighted the trouble that Italy's airline, Alitalia, is facing. Because the EU has ruled that governments can no longer fund private airlines, Italy has been forced to pull its funding from Alitalia. This has left Alitalia with not nearly enough cash to run for more than a few more weeks. The newly reelected Prime Minister, Silvio Berlusconi, has vowed that he will make saving Alitalia a priority, but until another company comes along to bail them out, you should definitely avoid making any reservations on Alitalia. See Budget Travel for some tips on making the most of your reservation if you already have booked with Alitalia for this summer.

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

Palazzo Massimo Exhibit of Pompeian Frescoes

The Palazzo Massimo, one of the galleries in the National Museum of Rome, is hosting a collection of frescoes from houses and villas of Pompeii, destroyed in the 79 CE eruption of Mt. Vesuvius. The exhibit, titled "Rosso Pompeiano" (Pompeian Red, for the color of the pigment that has made the Pompeian style of painting so iconic) features scenes of daily life, mythology, and nature. Most of the Pompeian frescoes have been borrowed from the Naples Museum of Archaeology and they are displayed with the permanent collection of the Palazzo Massimo, which includes sculptures, coins, pottery and other frescoes from the same time period and beyond. To read more about the exhibit, see a recent New York Times article or visit the exhibit website. You can also make reservations on-line. The exhibit runs until June 1st.