More Amazing Views in Rome

The monument to Vittorio Emanuele II, the king under whom Italy was unified in the 19th century, may be an eyesore and a source of annoyance to many native Romans. But the view from the top of the building is amazing. From this vantage point in the center of the city you can see every dome, palazzo and archaeological ruin worth seeing in Rome, including a bird's eye view of the Roman Forum. There are even two free museums celebrating the military history of Italy to visit within the structure. The monument and museums are open Tuesday through Sunday.
Readers: Where do you think you can get the best view in Rome?

Piazzale Garibaldi-The Best Views of Rome?

There are two spectacular parks in Rome which offer panoramic views. The Pincio (near Piazza del Popolo) and Piazzale Garibaldi, on the Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill). From Piazzale Garibaldi not only can you see all of the historic center of Rome to the east-the Pantheon, the Colosseum, the Forum, etc-but to the west you have an incomparable view of the dome of St. Peter's. The piazza, which contains a playground for children and hosts live puppet shows ala Punch and Judy, is dedicated to Giuseppe Garibaldi, the Italian military and political leader who helped unify and liberate Italy in the 19th century. From the piazza it is an easy walk to the Fontanone (the fountain dedicated by Pope Paul V), the American Academy in Rome, and down into Trastevere for food and drink!

A Restaurant With a View-Il Fontanone del Gianicolo

In conjunction with Estate Romana, the Acqua Paola at the top of the Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill) hosts an outdoor restaurant and cocktail bar. Il Fontanone del Gianicolo boasts the best view of the city next to the grand and picturesque fountain built by Pope Paul V. In addition to the food and drink available in summertime, through September 14th TeatroStudio, a Roman performing arts organization, hosts FontanonEstate-live music, theater and poetry on a stage next to the fountain. Summer's almost over, so be sure to catch the restaurant and entertainment this week!

La Notte Bianca-September 13

The Modern Traveler has searched and to the best of her ability has determined that White Night will take place on September 13th this year. There has been talk of lack of funding which may make the celebration a bit less grand-but plan on staying up all night with the Romans on September 13th!

Trastevere Nightlife: Stardust Jazz Bar

Years ago when the Modern Traveler was a student in Rome, Trastevere nightlife was irresistible. Today the pubs and clubs that lured MT in the past are still attracting expatriates and locals. The tiny Stardust Jazz Bar on Vicolo dei Renzi satisfies any cravings you may have for live jazz and cocktails. Upstairs you can have tea during the day (and bagels on the weekends!). Downstairs at night is where the live jazz gets heavy-and the rock and reggae!
Readers: Where can you hear the best jazz in Rome?

Piperno in the Jewish Ghetto

Since 1860, Piperno has been a fixture in the Jewish Ghetto of Rome. Located on the Piazza Cenci, it is in the heart of the Ghetto (and a little hard to find). Specializing in traditional Roman Jewish fare-think artichokes alla Giudia-Piperno also brings in the best of the season and changes the menu accordingly. Piperno is the quintessential Roman Jewish experience. Everything is kosher and it's closed in August.

Roman Holiday on Salon.com

The Modern Traveler always enjoys reading other people's impressions of the Eternal City. An article on Salon.com in July summed up much of the Modern Traveler's own feelings about Rome. Ever more crowded, ever more stimulating, it's easy to be overwhelmed when you are there and forget that everything you are seeing is extraordinary. But the author of the article, Gary Kamiya, captures the best of what is Roman when he writes: "Our last night in Rome, we wandered at dusk through the Ghetto. A coolness had fallen on the city and the shadows lingered on the piazzas. Passing the Portal of Octavian, we came to the end of a dead-end street. Below, in the shadow of the Theater of Marcellus, a pianist was playing Chopin. A few listeners were sitting on a railing; a woman was painting. Ahead of us rose up the three illuminated columns of the Temple of Apollo, built in 20 B.C., when the Roman republic, the glory of the world, had just fallen. The past touched us, a brief blast of trumpets and light, then receded into the gathering darkness, leaving only a faint echo, like the sound of the sea. It was one of a thousand corners in this unknowable city. We looked around to remember this fleeting and eternal moment. And then we walked on."

Low Airfare to Rome from San Francisco in November

A recent search on Delta Airlines found an $853 airfare from San Francisco to Rome leaving Monday, November 10th and returning Thursday, November 20th. That's pretty much the lowest airfare the Modern Traveler has seen from this side of the U.S. to the Eternal City in six months. Act fast!

White Night Rome 2008-La Notte Bianca: What is the date?

Despite the Modern Traveler's continued efforts to find out the details, the specific date of Rome's La Notte Bianca is still uncertain. Does anyone out there know if and when the Roman city officials have decreed the date? The La Notte Bianca website is unfortunately still from 2007... Please comment with internet links, if possible!

Valentino: The Last Emperor

The Venice Film Festival was the site of the premiere of a new documentary about the life of fashion designer Valentino Garavani. Valentino retired last year but his designs are still going strong-and so is his influence. Rome, of course, hosted his retirement party last summer in full glory, with a retrospective of his designs in the Ara Pacis Museum (pictured) and a stunning party at the Villa Borghese. This fall, from September 3rd through September 10, Samsung is hosting a digital exhibition of Valentino's works during New York City's Fashion Week called "The Red Thread: The Inspiration and Passion of Valentino." There you can also see sneak preview footage of the new documentary, "Valentino: The Last Emperor."

Madonna in Rome September 6

As part of Estate Romana (Roman Summer) and the Sticky and Sweet tour, Madonna will be performing in Rome at the Piazzale Stadio Olympico on September 6. Gates open at 7:00 pm! Buy tickets here (starting at 69 Euros).

Egypt in Rome at the Castel Sant'Angelo

Until October 28 the Castel Sant'Angelo will host an exhibition linking two of the greatest civilizations of all time-Egypt and Rome. The exhibit focuses on the influence that Egypt and her artifacts had on the art, architecture and culture of the city of Rome. "L'Egitto a Roma dalla storia al mito" (Egypt to Rome through the story of myth) will shed light on the Egyptian obelisks and deities visible throughout Rome.

A Restaurant with a View-Mirabelle at the Hotel Splendide Royal

If you are looking to spend a LOT of money (yes-250 Euros per person) you could do no wrong at Mirabelle at the Hotel Splendide Royal on the Via Veneto. The views from this restaurant are spectacular-the Villa Medici, the Pincio, the Vatican. The food is excellent as well. If 250 Euros per person seems a bit steep (and with the US dollar still weak, it certainly does seem steep) settle for a drink at the American Bar Mirabelle. There are a few tables on the terrace for patrons. The drinks won't be cheap-but definitely more affordable than dinner!
Readers: Which restaurant has the best view in Rome?

Low Airfare to Rome in January

If you're anything like the Modern Traveler (and my guess is you are) you are always planning your next trip to Rome. A recent search on United found a $615 airfare from JFK to Rome (through Washington DC) for January 14-21 of 2009. It's definitely not too early to start planning a winter trip to Rome. And remember-the crowds will be gone-you'll have the whole place to yourself!

Roman Nights at the Theater of Marcellus

As part of Estate Romana (Roman Summer) the Theater of Marcellus is host to a number of theatrical and musical performances. This week you can hear Liszt, Bach, Beethoven, Haydn, Chopin and Brahms all performed live starting at 8:30 pm. If you arrive at 8:00 pm you will receive a tour of the archaeological ruins of the Theater as well. See the website for details. Tickets are 15 Euros for the concert and tour.

Guided Tours of the Stadium of Domitian by Night

Underneath Piazza Navona are the foundations of the Stadium of the Emperor Domitian. These foundations actually provide the racetrack shape of the present-day piazza. On Sunday, August 24th, you can go beneath the piazza and see the remnants of the stadium for yourself. This rare guided tour begins at 8:00 pm and costs 5 Euros. To reserve tickets individually or for groups call 06 4391597; 339 1998481; 349 7820922 or email artable@libero.it. The tours meet at Piazza di Tor Sanguigna 13. See the Estate Romana (Roman Summer) website for more details.

A Restaurant With A View-The Cafe Atop the Capitoline Museum

The Capitoline Museum should not be missed. Nor should the cafe atop the museum, which affords the visitor a lovely view of Rome's domes and a welcome break from the madness below. The cafe is situated upon a terrace populated with trees and greenery. You won't ever want to leave this beautiful spot.

Whose Statue is that in the Campo dei Fiori?

The Dominican friar Giordano Bruno was burned alive as a heretic in Campo dei Fiori in 1600. The Catholic Church condemned him to this horrific death because of his radical philosophical beliefs-that the sun was the center of our circle of planets and that the universe was unlimited in its evolution. This belief, of course, contradicted the Church's assertion that the universe was created by a single deity. Galileo's discoveries 16 years later supported Bruno's beliefs, but when Galileo appeared before the Grand Inquisitor he caved in. Bruno never recanted his beliefs and paid the price. When the statue in Campo dei Fiori was erected in 1889, the Catholic Church still refused to recognize Bruno's ideas and to this day the Vatican expresses only a little regret for the friar's fate. A recent article in the New Yorker reviews a new biography of his life by Ingrid Rowland-" Giordano Bruno:Philosopher/Heretic."

White Night Rome-La Notte Bianca

Every year in September, Rome (and other European cities) host an all-night celebration of culture. Museums, sights, galleries, restaurants and shops are open all night, and the streets are filled with performances, music and pedestrians enjoying free entertainment throughout the city. The celebration is for everyone, young and old, Italian and foreign, and must not be missed. To find out more about the programs of the evening, see La Notte Bianca website for details. The official date has not yet been set, so check back frequently.

L'Insalata Ricca-Casual Dining in the Heart of the Historic Center

L'Insalata Ricca, just off the Via Vittorio Emanuele near Campo dei Fiori in Largo dei Chiavari is the perfect spot for a healthy lunch during your busy day in Rome. They have an extensive menu of big salads and easy pastas all for a reasonable price (really!). You can sit outside and enjoy people watching while you dine as well. They have several locations throughout the city, including another very close site at Piazza Pasquino near Piazza Navona. They are the perfect restaurants for tourists on a budget, students in a hurry, and anyone who likes simple, delicious food. Try the Insalata Capricciosa-arugula, feta, olives and corn!