Elsa Morante-A New Biography

Brilliant Roman writer Elsa Morante led a life that some people only read about. Born in Rome, half Jewish, she married well-known author Alberto Moravia and spent part of World War II hiding in the mountains from the Germans who occupied Rome. Her circle of friends included famous Italian actress Anna Magnani and director Bernardo Bertolucci. A new biography of her life, Woman of Rome: A Life of Elsa Morante by Lily Tuck, whose own father knew Morante well, explores not only the chronological events of Morante's life, but also pays close attention to details such as Morante's style and conversational wit. Read more about the book in the August issue of Vogue (unfortunately not on-line) and in a recent LA Times article.

ReidsGuides.com-Favorite Hotels

Reid Bramblett, a Frommer's Travel Guides writer and travel expert, has his own website devoted to insider's travel tips. ReidsGuides.com will help you plan your trip, inspire you to travel, and save you tons of cash along the way. Of particular interest to the Modern Traveler are his hotel picks. Several of them, like the Hotel Aventino, Hotel San Anselmo, Hotel Raphael (pictured)and Albergo Abruzzi are also favorites of this blog. The rest of Reid's choices must be worth looking into indeed!
Readers: Which hotel in Rome is your favorite?

Budget Travel Interviews Reid Bramblett from Frommer's

Budget Travel outlines some of Frommer's writer Reid Bramblett's tips for making travel in Italy affordable. He recommends looking for other lodging besides hotels like campgrounds and monasteries, comparing car rental prices with AutoEurope.com, and trying Italian villages which have been turned into hotels (alberghidiffusi.it). You can also see his own website for recommendations at ReidsGuides.com.

3 Ways to Save Euros in Rome

The key to saving money on museums, archaeological sites, and transportation in Rome is to purchase "city cards" from the city of Rome. Budget Travel outlines how you can save using three different packages.
1. The Roma Pass (20 Euros) gets you into two museums/sites and discounts at various other sites and events and unlimited entry on buses and metros for three days.
2. The Roma Piu Pass (25 Euros) also offers the above perks but expands into regional trains and buses.
3. The Roma Archaeologia Card (22 Euros) gets you into an extensive list of ancient sites for seven days.
Budget Travel reminds you that many sites are closed on Mondays, so plan ahead.

English Language Bookstores in Trastevere

The Almost Corner Bookstore in Trastevere (Via del Moro 45) is the place to pick up English language novels, guidebooks and publications. The people working at the store are so helpful and ready to have a friendly chat. For used books in English and other languages, visit the Open Door Bookshop on Via della Lungaretta 23 on the other side of the Viale Trastevere (pictured). The atmosphere is everything you'd expect of a used bookstore-and even more so because it's in Rome!

"Lavinia" by Ursula K. Le Guin

The story of Rome's origins goes farther back than Romulus and Remus, the twins who were suckled by a she-wolf and eventually founded the city. The legend of Rome extends all the way back to the Trojan War and to Aeneas, a Trojan who escaped the fall of Troy and sailed to Italy to establish a new home for his people. Vergil wrote Aeneas' story in his great epic, the Aeneid. But he only touches on the union that made Aeneas' settlement in Italy possible-his marriage to the daughter of the King of the Latins, Lavinia. Lavinia is a cipher in Roman history and legend, but without her Rome never would have been. Ursula K. Le Guin, who is known for fantasy, writes an account of Lavinia's life in prose that reads more like a poem and fiction that is so well-written that it seems like autobiography. If you are a lover of mythology and heroes, you will enjoy Lavinia immensely.

Restaurant Recommendations from Elle Magazine

A few months ago, Elle Magazine interviewed longtime Rome resident Erin Bazos about her insider favorites in Rome. Unfortunately the article is not on-line, but The Modern Traveler is happy to pass on her restaurant recommendations. On the Via della Pace is Chiostro del Bramante, a combination art gallery/bookstore/caffetteria which serves sandwiches, salads, wine and coffee surrounded by art on loan from museums. The cafe is attached to a cloister (pictured) designed by the brilliant architect Donato Bramante in 1504. On the lighter side, head to Zaza at Piazza Sant'Eustachio 49 for pizza with exceptional dough.

The Domus Aurea-Nero's Golden House

The emperor Nero built an extraordinary palace in Rome after a great fire destroyed many of its neighborhoods in 64 CE. The palace covered nearly 200 acres and was so spacious that the emperor set a 35 meter tall bronze statue of himself in the vestibule. It is from this colossal statue that the Colosseum derives its name, for the emperor Vespasian demolished parts of the palace and in its place erected his own amphitheater near the statue (and redesigned the statue as Apollo). During the Renaissance, amateur explorers and archaeologists found their way into the debris filled underground rooms of what remained of the palace. They found frescoes and mosaics covering the walls and floors which inspired the grotesque motifs of Renaissance decor. You can discover for yourself the power of Nero's artistic inspirations, as several rooms of the palace were opened to the public a few years ago. These rooms are located on the Oppian Hill, across the street from the Colosseum. Reservations are obligatory and can be made by phone or on-line. See the RomaTurismo website for opening hours and details.

More Day Trips from Rome: Orvieto

Just 90 minutes from Rome is the hillside medieval town of Orvieto. Once the refuge for popes when Rome was threatened, this tiny town boasts a huge Gothic cathedral. The town is perched on a huge cliff made of volcanic rock and is accessible by tram car. The site has been populated since the time of the Etruscans and there is a museum there devoted to the study of these ancient people. The wines and ceramics of Orvieto are well-known, so be sure to sample both while you are visiting. To get there from Rome take the A1 toward Florence or one of several trains a day that leave from Roma Termini.

Day Trips from Rome: Umbrian Monastery

The Wall Street Journal highlights the monastery Abbazia San Pietro in Valle in Umbria. The monastery is refashioned into a rustically simple hotel where you can relax and soak in the gorgeous Italian countryside. While you are there you can explore the ruins of the abandoned medieval village Umbriano, just a short walk away. The monastery also has an exquisite restaurant, Il Cantico, so even if you are not staying the night, be sure to stay for dinner.

Ban on Eating Near Public Monuments in Rome

A recent ruling in Rome has banned all snacking near major monuments like the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon! If you are caught dribbling your gelato on something famous, be prepared to pay a fine of about $80. The ban is in effect until October, when the tourists go home. Yet another reason to visit Rome after the high season!

Convent Stays in Rome-The Cheapest Lodgings!

The Church of Santa Susana in Rome maintains an extensive list of convents that accommodate overnight visitors. A convent stay, while very cheap (think 40 euros for a double room) and no doubt picturesque, is not for the luxury traveler. Often there is a curfew and bathrooms are down the hall. But the locations are some of the best in Rome (like the Casa Santa Brigida in the Piazza Farnese, pictured) and obviously the price can't be beat. Visit the Church of Santa Susana website to find the convent that's right for you-and make sure you ask the important questions, like "Is there a curfew?" before you book!

Low Airfare to Rome in September

Airfare to Rome drops dramatically in price in September. From New York's JFK you can catch a flight for $735 on Iberian Airlines, leaving on September 10 and returning the 16th. In October (leaving the 29th, returning the 12th of November) the fares are reduced even more to $719 (also on Iberian Airlines). Autumn is a great time to visit the Eternal City-fewer crowds and glorious weather. The real Romans will have returned from their summer vacations, making your experience even more authentic.

Caravaggio in Rome

It is possible to enjoy the works of the great master Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio (the other Michelangelo) without paying museum entrance fees. Three churches house several of the painters works and all are free to visitors. At Santa Maria del Popolo (in Piazza del Popolo) you can see The Crucifixion of St. Peter and The Conversion of St. Paul. The Church of San Luigi dei Francesi, near Piazza Navona, has three Caravaggios dedicated to St. Matthew. Also next to Piazza Navona is the church of Sant'Augostino whose facade is made of travertine from the Colosseum. Inside you can see the Madonna of the Pilgrims (pictured), which is remarkable for its realistic portrayal of common people. Caravaggio is known for his heightened use of shadows and light (chiaroscuro) and was once a pupil of the great Venetian painter, Titian. At one point, Caravaggio was the most renowned painter in Rome.

Jazz on the Appian Way

As part of the Estate Romana festivities, a free jazz festival is taking place from July 10 through August 10 at the Ristorante Giuda Ballerino near Largo Appio Claudio (Via Marco Valerio Corvo 135). The festival is kicked off by Pasquale Iannarella on saxophone. Call 06/71076070 for more information.

Things To Do For Free in Rome

The print version of National Geographic Traveler has a fantastic article on Rome this month. While the full article in not available on-line, their website does have some fun Roman features that will help you plan your trip and save money. Free Rome details various monuments, sites, entertainment and even food that costs niente. Included in the extensive lists are walking tours of the Pantheon and St. Peter's Basilica, free drinks and/or appetizers at various restaurants and festivals such as Estate Romana and the Isola del Cinema film festival on the Tiber Island. There's also a slide show to get you excited about your trip!

The Via Giulia is 500

One of Rome's most elegant streets, the Via Giulia, is celebrating its 500th birthday this summer. The street, built by Pope Julius II, was originally part of a building program around the Vatican. The street runs almost parallel to the Tiber River for a spell, but does not have the traffic of the Lungotevere, the thoroughfare which brings traffic north along the river. The Via Giulia is lined with churches and palazzos-one even belonging to the Medici family. Many of these churches and palazzos, usually closed to the public, will open this summer in celebration of the quincentenary. See the website devoted to the events (unfortunately only in Italian) or read more about the sights on the Via Giulia in a recent New York Times article.

COMING SOON!

COMING SOON!

Mausoleum of Costanza

For Roman architecture buffs, there is no better place to experience the excellence of Roman engineering than the Mausoleum of Costanza on the Via Nomentana. The circular temple, built for the emperor Constantine's daughters and later turned into a church, contains a spectacular dome and exquisite mosaics from the 4th century CE. Nearby is the Church of Sant'Agnese which contains extensive catacombs. The mausoleum and catacombs are open daily 9-12 and 2-6, closed Mondays and Sunday and holiday mornings. Be sure to call ahead just in case!