Giada de Laurentiis is On Tour

Yes, you love her recipes-but it's really her cute smile and sense of style that make you such a fan! Well, you have the chance to meet Giada in the flesh-she's going on a tour to promote her new cookbook, Giada's Kitchen, which was just released today. Check her website for the calendar of her book signing appearances and get your copy of the book signed by Giada herself!

History Channel Airs Special on Sunken Ships of Lake Nemi

Lake Nemi, just a short drive form Rome but a world away, is a lake formed from a volcanic crater. The ancient Romans felt that it was a sacred place and built shrines to several gods in the vicinity, including Diana, the goddess of the forests and hunting. Caligula built a floating temple to Diana (perhaps) and Mussolini pried this temple from the muck of Lake Nemi. The floating temple (two ships, actually) was put on display in a nearby museum, but the Nazis burned the museum as they were retreating. The History Channel attempts to recreate this floating temple and even shares footage of the draining of the lake by Mussolini to recover the ships. Watch the show tonight at 9:00 pm, and if you miss it, it's on again at 1:00 am Wednesday, October 1st (that's also tonight!).

Villa Laetitia-The Fendi Family Designs Again

Anna Fendi's mansion along the Tiber River came with a guesthouse that was perfect for a small hotel. The Fendi matriarch and her daughters and granddaughters (including Delfina, who has her own jewelry store in Rome) transformed the foresteria into the 15 room Villa Laetitia (Happiness House), each room mixing modern flair with the traditional architectural forms of the house. All rooms have a kitchenette and many have direct access to the gardens and grounds. The hotel is just a 15 minute walk from Piazza del Popolo, and to be fair, is almost reasonable with rooms starting at 180 Euros. The hotel is on Conde Nast Traveler's Hot List 2008, along with the famous J.K. Place hotel on Capri.

Tod's Film Takes Gwyneth to Rome to Promote Pashmy Bag

Tod's, the Milanese shoe company famed for its driving loafer, recently released a film on its website starring Gwyneth Paltrow (who has her own website now-read a review here). The film, directed by Dennis Hopper, is dedicated to a new handbag, the Pashmy, and what happens when the celebrity loses hers in Rome. Campo dei Fiori and the Villa Aldobrandini in Frascati are the featured locations in this short film. Villa Aldobrandini is an incredible 17th century palace built by the nephew of Pope Clement VIII, Cardinal Pietro Aldobrandini. The Villa is famous for its commanding view of the valley leading up to Rome, as well its water theater, park and Baroque wall-paintings. The Villa and the charming town of Frascati make for an excellent daytrip from Rome- and admission is free!
Watch the film here.

Ways to Save Euros

With the world economy crashing down around us, visitors to Rome will find themselves balking at the high prices of everything from cappuccino to cab rides. But there are deals to be had (see Ways to Save Euros).
Readers: What free-or almost free-activities have you found in Rome recently? And conversely, what expensive activities did you find were just not worth it?

Tram Line Repair Exposes Roman Ruins

A few months ago, the Modern Traveler reported on the proposed expansion of Rome's subway lines which was sure to unearth all sorts of new archaeological finds. Recently, a repair to the tram line that runs on the Via Marmorata to Piazza Aventino has exposed an ancient road, remains of a Roman wall, several tombs and sections of the floors of the grain warehouses of Rome's port on the Tiber River. If you are in Rome you should head over to the Via Marmorata to see real-life archaeology in action! (See the article in La Reppubblica-translated courtesy of Google)

"I, Claudius: From the Autobiography of Tiberius Claudius, Born 10 BC, Murdered and Deified AD 54" by Robert Graves

No, this isn't a new release or even a recently published edition. The Modern Traveler has found herself with a little time on her hands (and not traveling to Rome, unfortunately) and so she picked up this book. There's a reason this book is a classic. Robert Graves, somehow, someway, made it seem possible to really truly know the heart of the emperor Claudius. It boggles the mind to conceive of the amount of research that Graves must have done to write the things he wrote. And what an imagination! What a joy it would have been to meet him. His translations and novels are so perfect-he is absolutely one of the great Classical scholars of our time. And I, Claudius is the pinnacle of his work.

Low Airfare to Rome in December

Delta Airlines has a nonstop airfare for $720 from JFK to Rome December 11-17. Tablet Hotels is also offering the famous and luxurious Regina Hotel Baglioni on the Via Veneto for 270 Euros a night. With all these savings you can have an amazing honeymoon in Rome...or just a lovely winter trip.

Most Romantic Things to Do at Night in Rome

Nighttime is the most romantic time in Rome. The sounds of traffic are muted, the dusk hides any debris or graffiti that the harsh sunlight illuminates, the streetlights cast a warm glow over the cobblestones, and the busloads of tourists have gone back to their hotels. So what should you and your loved one do with yourselves? Well, after you have a romantic dinner there are a myriad of options. For music lovers, in summer you can head to the Baths of Caracalla for an outdoor opera performance. Aida is always a favorite! In other seasons, the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma always has something spectacular going on. If opera is not your preference, head to the Theater of Marcellus for classical music in the ruins of the ancient theater (through the end of September). While you are in the vicinity of the theater, be sure to take a stroll through the Jewish Ghetto-at night it is so charming. Don't miss the Fontana della Tartarughe in Piazza Mattei. Also near the theater is the Campidoglio (Capitoline Hill) from where you can see the most beautiful view of the Roman Forum at night. Unfortunately the Forum is not open for evening tours. In general, walking around Rome is one of the most romantic evening activities. The Modern Traveler's favorite evening walk is from Trastevere (after a lovely dinner), across the Ponte Sisto, through Piazza Navona and to the Pantheon. Isola Tiberina (Tiber Island) is also a romantic spot for you and your honey to canoodle. And in summer there are cafes and a film festival to entertain you.
Readers: Do you have any suggestions for romantic nighttime activities out and about in Rome?

Most Romantic Shopping in Rome

With the economy in trouble at home and the US dollar so weak abroad, shopping in Italy has got to be about more than just the goods. It's got to be about the experience as well. Rome is full of interesting and picturesque shopping opportunities for your honeymoon or vacation. Of course, for big spenders there are the shops near the Piazza di Spagna. Granted, there are Prada stores in all the world-class cities, but when someone compliments you on your shoes or handbag, it will be much more fun to say "Thanks! I got it in Rome!"And if you are in Rome in July or January, you can take advantage of the Saldi (sales). If you are in the market for antiques, there are several options. For antique books and prints, head to the Piazza Fontanella Borghese for an open-air antiquarian market. Not only will you find works in print, but you will also encounter rare coins, stamps and even jewelry. If you are budget-conscious, any one of the city's flea markets will suit your fancy. The Porta Portese is the largest market in Rome and there you can find any number of second-hand goods from all over the world. Be prepared to sort through some questionable items and to haggle once you've found what you're looking for! (Click here for more on Rome's open-air markets). For more expensive and larger options-be aware that shipping costs can be pretty steep-head to the Via del Babuino near Piazza di Spagna. You'll find countless shops filled with elegant antique furniture, paintings and china. Even if you don't buy anything, strolling down the street with your loved one while perusing beautiful old Italian goods will certainly feel romantic. The Modern Traveler's favorite shopping experience is always Santa Maria Novella, the Florentine perfume shop near Piazza Navona. The profumeria is over 500 years old and the original scent was created for Catherine de Medici. What could be more romantic than buying perfume?
Readers: What's your favorite shopping experience in Rome?

Most Romantic Walks in Rome

If you are on your honeymoon or you are just in the mood for romance, you will find unlimited opportunities for charming walks in Rome. The walk from the Galleria Borghese to the Pincio, one of the most famous strolls in Rome, should be done in time to watch the sun go down over St. Peter's (pictured). For you archaeology buffs, a walk on the Palatine Hill will take you out of the crowds and into shady paths with lovely views of the Forum (and some interesting ruins-like the house of the Emperor Augustus- as well). An evening passegiata in Trastevere will inspire you to move to Rome and become a starving artist. Don't miss the Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere and its namesake church, whose 12th century Byzantine mosaics are illuminated at night. If your legs are up to it, head up to Piazzale Garibaldi on the Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill) for the best view of Rome. Don't forget to linger by the Fontana dell'Acqua Paola. And last, if you need to get out of the hustle and bustle of the city for a day, take the train to Ostia Antica. Pack a picnic lunch and wander among the ruins for the afternoon. Be sure to visit the amphitheater, public baths and forum.
Readers: What's your favorite walk in Rome?

Most Romantic Restaurants in Rome

If you plan to honeymoon in Rome, there are a few restaurants that you must explore. For a splurge, try L'altro Mastai near Piazza Navona. The chef was trained at the highly acclaimed La Pergola (at the Rome Cavalieri Hilton) and the tasting menu, ambience and service will make you swoon. For a more picturesque experience, Giggeto al Portico d'Ottavia in the Jewish Ghetto brings you face to face with the ruins of the Theater of Marcellus and the Portico Octavia while you enjoy traditional Roman-Jewish fare. If you prefer a more Bohemian atmosphere, try Sabatini in Piazza Santa Maria (pictured) in Trastevere. Not exactly a quiet romantic spot, but the heady combination of good food, people watching and the view of the piazza and its namesake 12th century church will certainly put the Roman into your romance.
Readers: What's your favorite romantic restaurant in Rome?

Italy is the Top Honeymoon Destination

Modern Bride magazine rates Italy as the #1 honeymoon destination in the world. And naturally Rome must be included in every Italian honeymoon. Brides.com recommends some great hotels and restaurants, including the recently renovated restaurant Casina Valadier in the Villa Borghese and the Exedra Hotel (which has a pool!). The website also recommends some fun activities such as the Casa del Jazz, a villa devoted to live music and the Citta del Gusto, a 54,000 square foot space that houses restaurants, riverside terraces, and the Gambero Rosso food TV channel-and live cooking demonstrations in a food theater!
Readers: Have you honeymooned in Rome? What were your favorite activities?

Alitalia Looks to Lufthansa

Alitalia is still in trouble. Rumor has it that they are looking to Lufthansa, the German airline, for a partial buyout (the Italian government owns almost half of the airline and it cannot sell). Air France-KLM was blocked by unions from a buyout earlier this year, so it's hard to predict what will happen. Lufthansa thinks that Alitalia has too much debt. In the meantime, Alitalia is losing money every day, is cutting thousands of jobs, and has trouble buying fuel. It hasn't cancelled any flights yet...but be aware when booking Alitalia that things are precarious. Paolo Scaroni, the chief executive of ENI, an Italian oil company, told La Repubblica that he would not sell oil to Alitalia on credit "not even if Berlusconi or the pope asked me to."

Hadrian: Empire and Conflict at the British Museum

Through October 26th, artifacts relating to the emperor Hadrian from 28 museums around the world will be on exhibit at the British Museum. Hadrian, one of the Modern Traveler's favorite emperors, was known for stabilizing the vast borders of the Roman Empire, his great love for Greek culture, his reconstruction of the Pantheon, and his relationship with Antinous, a Greek youth who died in Egypt. So if you find yourself in London (hopefully on your way to Rome!) be sure to visit this very special exhibition.

Villa Torlonia Has Reopened

One of the most lavish of the private villas in Rome, the Villa Torlonia was closed for several years and has recently reopened restored to all its former opulence. The Villa is located to the east of the Villa Borghese along the Via Nomentana in the elegant Parioli neighborhood of Rome. The villa was redesigned in the 18th century by Marchese Giovanni Torlonia, who commissioned Giuseppe Valadier to renovate the main villa and build several outbuildings and gardens. These outbuildings included three major residences, stables, false ancient ruins, a small temple and later additions of a Moorish grotto, conservatory and tower, among other structures. Today the Villa Torlonia and its grounds, museums in their own right, house collections of stained glass, statuary, and archives from the Roman School era of painting from 1920-1940. The Villa was also Mussolini's primary residence 1925 until 1943, when it became the headquarters of the Allied High Command. The Villa Torlonia opens at 9:00 am and remains open until at least 6:30 pm year-round.

Delfina Delettrez Fendi-Jewelry on the Via del Governo Vecchio

A new jewelry boutique has opened in Rome on the Via del Governo Vecchio. Where else would a fourth generation Fendi heir decide to sell her designs but on the most unique and eclectic shopping street in Rome? Delfina Delettrez Fendi, the daughter of Silvia Fendi, accessories designer for Fendi and Bernard Delettrez, the French jeweler, has created a modern line of jewelry inspired by Gothic themes: snakes and skulls in lots of enamel. Even if playful Goth is not your style, you should stop by and see the exquisitely designed store. The green jewel-box of a shop is located at 67 Via del Governo Vecchio.

Readers: Have you been to this store? What did you think of Delfina Fendi's jewelry?

Julius Caesar: The Man, The Enterprise, The Myth

At the Chiostro del Bramante on the Via della Pace, an exhibition of archaeological finds pertaining to the life and achievements of Julius Caesar ("Giulio Cesare. L'uomo, le imprese, il mito") will be on display from October 24th to April 5th. More recent works of art, such as paintings by Rubens, will also be shown in this exciting and exclusive exhibit. The Chiostro was designed by the brilliant architect Donato Bramante in the early 16th century is located in the convent and church of Santa Maria della Pace.

Moschino Comes to New York

Moschino, one of Italy's more avant-garde fashion houses, has come to New York City's Meatpacking District. Moschino is known for its witty take on classic pieces. There are three brands, Moschino (the most expensive line), Moschino Cheap and Chic (not exactly cheap, but cheaper), and Love Moschino (the casual line). Moschino is definitely not for the faint of heart, but even the most traditional shopper can find something to love in their accessories lines. Their shoes are fun and fabulous! The Modern Traveler always tries to pick up a pair when she is in Rome (Via Borgogna 32/a). See the New York Times for an article on the new store in Manhattan.

Readers: What do you think of Moschino? Fabulous or ridiculous?

Virgin Vacations: Rome At Its Best

If you are looking for an all-inclusive package to Rome, Virgin Vacations has a really great offer. Starting from $939 from New York for travel in January, the package includes six nights hotel accommodation, round-trip airfare, daily breakfast, and hotel taxes and service fees. Fees increase slightly depending on your departure city, preferred travel times, and hotel standard. There are 20 hotels to choose from (including the Hotel Lord Byron), 15 US departure cities, and availability between now and the end of March. See Budget Travel for more information or go straight to Virgin's website to book.

A History of Imperial Forum Excavations at the Capitoline Museum

Mussolini may have been a despot, but he did initiate the excavations which uncovered a vast majority of the ancient ruins you see in Rome today-the Forum and Markets of Trajan, the Forum of Augustus (pictured), the Forum of Nerva and the Forum of Caesar. While some might argue that Mussolini's Via dei Fori Imperiali (the road that runs from the Piazza Venezia to the Colosseum) effectively severed the Imperial Forums in two-not exactly what the Romans intended-his program of excavations did make these amazing ruins accessible to everyone. You can learn more about Mussolini's excavation program at the Capitoline Museum until November 23rd. The exhibition, titled "L'invenzione dei Fori Imperiali. Demolizioni e scavi: 1924-1940 (The invention of the Imperial Fora. Demolition and excavations: 1924-1940)" highlights photos, paintings and artifacts from these excavations.

A Restaurant With A View-La Carbonara

One of Rome's institutions is La Carbonara in Campo dei Fiori. Contrary to popular opinion, it does not take its name from the famous egg and bacon pasta (although they do serve a mean Carbonara!). The name actually comes from the original owner who used to sell coal (a Carbonaro). When his daughter took over, she changed the name to the feminine form. The restaurant is famous not only for its traditional Roman fare, but also for its fantastic view of Campo dei Fiori and the statue of Giordano Bruno in the center of the square. You can't go wrong with the food-and you'll love the view from the restaurant's upstairs dining rooms. La Carbonara is open every day until 11:30 pm.

More Amazing Views in Rome

The monument to Vittorio Emanuele II, the king under whom Italy was unified in the 19th century, may be an eyesore and a source of annoyance to many native Romans. But the view from the top of the building is amazing. From this vantage point in the center of the city you can see every dome, palazzo and archaeological ruin worth seeing in Rome, including a bird's eye view of the Roman Forum. There are even two free museums celebrating the military history of Italy to visit within the structure. The monument and museums are open Tuesday through Sunday.
Readers: Where do you think you can get the best view in Rome?

Piazzale Garibaldi-The Best Views of Rome?

There are two spectacular parks in Rome which offer panoramic views. The Pincio (near Piazza del Popolo) and Piazzale Garibaldi, on the Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill). From Piazzale Garibaldi not only can you see all of the historic center of Rome to the east-the Pantheon, the Colosseum, the Forum, etc-but to the west you have an incomparable view of the dome of St. Peter's. The piazza, which contains a playground for children and hosts live puppet shows ala Punch and Judy, is dedicated to Giuseppe Garibaldi, the Italian military and political leader who helped unify and liberate Italy in the 19th century. From the piazza it is an easy walk to the Fontanone (the fountain dedicated by Pope Paul V), the American Academy in Rome, and down into Trastevere for food and drink!

A Restaurant With a View-Il Fontanone del Gianicolo

In conjunction with Estate Romana, the Acqua Paola at the top of the Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill) hosts an outdoor restaurant and cocktail bar. Il Fontanone del Gianicolo boasts the best view of the city next to the grand and picturesque fountain built by Pope Paul V. In addition to the food and drink available in summertime, through September 14th TeatroStudio, a Roman performing arts organization, hosts FontanonEstate-live music, theater and poetry on a stage next to the fountain. Summer's almost over, so be sure to catch the restaurant and entertainment this week!

La Notte Bianca-September 13

The Modern Traveler has searched and to the best of her ability has determined that White Night will take place on September 13th this year. There has been talk of lack of funding which may make the celebration a bit less grand-but plan on staying up all night with the Romans on September 13th!

Trastevere Nightlife: Stardust Jazz Bar

Years ago when the Modern Traveler was a student in Rome, Trastevere nightlife was irresistible. Today the pubs and clubs that lured MT in the past are still attracting expatriates and locals. The tiny Stardust Jazz Bar on Vicolo dei Renzi satisfies any cravings you may have for live jazz and cocktails. Upstairs you can have tea during the day (and bagels on the weekends!). Downstairs at night is where the live jazz gets heavy-and the rock and reggae!
Readers: Where can you hear the best jazz in Rome?

Piperno in the Jewish Ghetto

Since 1860, Piperno has been a fixture in the Jewish Ghetto of Rome. Located on the Piazza Cenci, it is in the heart of the Ghetto (and a little hard to find). Specializing in traditional Roman Jewish fare-think artichokes alla Giudia-Piperno also brings in the best of the season and changes the menu accordingly. Piperno is the quintessential Roman Jewish experience. Everything is kosher and it's closed in August.

Roman Holiday on Salon.com

The Modern Traveler always enjoys reading other people's impressions of the Eternal City. An article on Salon.com in July summed up much of the Modern Traveler's own feelings about Rome. Ever more crowded, ever more stimulating, it's easy to be overwhelmed when you are there and forget that everything you are seeing is extraordinary. But the author of the article, Gary Kamiya, captures the best of what is Roman when he writes: "Our last night in Rome, we wandered at dusk through the Ghetto. A coolness had fallen on the city and the shadows lingered on the piazzas. Passing the Portal of Octavian, we came to the end of a dead-end street. Below, in the shadow of the Theater of Marcellus, a pianist was playing Chopin. A few listeners were sitting on a railing; a woman was painting. Ahead of us rose up the three illuminated columns of the Temple of Apollo, built in 20 B.C., when the Roman republic, the glory of the world, had just fallen. The past touched us, a brief blast of trumpets and light, then receded into the gathering darkness, leaving only a faint echo, like the sound of the sea. It was one of a thousand corners in this unknowable city. We looked around to remember this fleeting and eternal moment. And then we walked on."

Low Airfare to Rome from San Francisco in November

A recent search on Delta Airlines found an $853 airfare from San Francisco to Rome leaving Monday, November 10th and returning Thursday, November 20th. That's pretty much the lowest airfare the Modern Traveler has seen from this side of the U.S. to the Eternal City in six months. Act fast!