Tosca at the Teatro Flaiano

Giaccomo Puccini's most famous opera, Tosca, is now playing at the Teatro Flaiano near the Pantheon. Tosca, the main character for whom the opera is named, is a singer who commits a serious crime to save her lover. The opera culminates in a dramatic scene atop the Castel Sant'Angelo. Don't miss the opportunity to see this quintessential Roman opera while you are in Rome. In the past the opera has actually been performed on the Castel Sant'Angelo, so if you miss it at the Teatro Flaiano, you may get lucky and see it where Puccini imagined it!

"The Smiles of Rome" edited by Susan Cahill

So many famous writers and artists have been inspired by Rome. Now you can read the impressions of Goethe, Henry James, Sigmund Freud, Edith Wharton and even Federico Fellini all in one book, The Smiles of Rome. Each chapter in the book is an essay or excerpt of a book by a notable personage awed by Rome's history, culture and archaeology. Included at the end of each chapter is a section with practical information detailing the places mentioned by the writers. You can follow in the footsteps of Nathaniel Hawthorne in the Catacombs or St. Peter through Trastevere. Even if your travels only take you as far as your living room, you will certainly enjoy your adventures in Rome through the eyes of some of the world's most famous writers.

Albergo Abruzzi-Moderately Priced Hotel in Rome

Concerned more about the location of your hotel than over-the-top luxury? Don't mind walking up a few flights of stairs (with your bags)? Then you should be aware of the many mid-range hotels that Rome has to offer within the Centro Storico (historic center). A perennial favorite is the Albergo Abruzzi, perfectly situated on the Piazza della Rotonda opposite the Pantheon. While the noise from the piazza at night is considerable, the view is incomparable and the location can't be beat. The rooms are simple, clean, and recently renovated. A double room starts at 195 Euros, which is certainly a deal considering you get a private bathroom (the hotel used to have only shared bathrooms), continental breakfast, and the most fascinating part of Rome at your doorstep. Check out the special discounted rates in February. With your discounted airfare, you'll have enough left over for a shopping spree on the Via Condotti!

Planning to Study Abroad? Choose Your Program Wisely

There has been a lot of talk lately in the newspapers about the "Study Abroad Scandal." The states of New York and Illinois have launched investigations into 15 universities (including Harvard, Columbia, Cornell and Northwestern) concerning their relationships with providers of foreign study programs. There may be evidence that some independent foreign study programs have been giving cash incentives and other benefits to schools to ensure that the schools steer students to their study programs. Although students attending the programs that are being investigated may find that these programs are indeed the right fit for their purposes, the Attorney Generals of both states are concerned that the universities' Study Abroad offices may not be serving students' best interests. Two of the programs under investigation are the American Institute of Foreign Study and the Institute for the International Education of Students, which both have programs in Rome. What can you do to make sure you are indeed choosing the right program for yourself or your family members? Budget Travel has put together a list of 10 questions to ask before you commit.

The Ara Pacis

The emperor Augustus built the Ara Pacis (the Altar of Peace) in 9 BCE to commemorate his new era of peace after a century of civil wars in Rome. The altar is a masterpiece of classical sculpture, depicting various images of fertility, peace, Roman history and Republican values. The altar was recently installed a new museum designed by Richard Meier. Last summer, the Italian designer Valentino, who is preparing to retire, staged a retrospective exhibit of his designs in the museum. You can visit the museum and the altar, nestled between the Mausoleum of Augustus and the Tiber River, Tuesdays through Sundays 9:00 am to 7:00 pm.

Low Airfares to Rome in February

If you have some flexibility in your vacation time, now is the time for cheap airfare to Rome. A recent search on kayak.com had airfares from as low as $536 from San Francisco to Rome on United and Lufthansa departing Monday, February 4th. From JFK to Rome the fare was slightly lower, $497. Don't wait until summer when you can't find a ticket for less than $1000!

500,000 Colorful Balls Released on the Spanish Steps

On January 16th, artist Graziano Cecchini released 500,000 colorful plastic balls down the Spanish Steps as an artistic commentary on the social problems of Italy. The Italian word for ball is palle, which is also a word for "untruth." Cecchini was detained by Roman authorities shortly after the release of the balls. Cecchini is famous for dyeing the water in the Trevi Fountain red in October of 2007 as a protest for the poor treatment of artists in Italy. Is Cecchini's work art or vandalism?

Buying fakes in Italy-Just don't do it

While you're walking around Rome, you won't be able to miss the street vendors with their handbags, sunglasses, belts and wallets on display on the blankets in the streets. You may be tempted to pick up what seems like a pretty good knock-off of a designer product. But you also won't be able to miss those vendors being chased out of the piazzas by the police. Selling and purchasing counterfeit bags in Italy is against the law and buyers could be liable to fines of up to 10,000 Euros. Not only does the counterfeit industry diminish the value of the genuine products (like this Fendi bag) but the production of counterfeit goods involves all kinds of nefarious activity. Child labor, smuggling, gang violence and drugs are a part of the counterfeit business. Even terrorism is supported by the counterfeit industry. So next time you are tempted to pick up a fake handbag, think twice. Save your money for the real thing.

Day Trips from Rome-Hadrian's Villa at Tivoli

In the 2nd century CE the Emperor Hadrian built a country retreat for himself to escape the chaos and corruption of Rome. Hadrian had travelled all over the Roman Empire and used many different architectural traditions in the more than 30 buildings at the site. Hadrian's Villa was created with extensive horticultural and sculpture gardens, libraries, temples and bath complexes. Today the villa is a UNESCO World Heritage site and still provides a welcome haven for visitors from Rome. While you are in the area of Tivoli (ancient Tibur) be sure to stop at the Villa d'Este, a Renaissance palace known for its spectacular fountains, built by Cardinal Ippolito II d'Este, son of Lucrezia Borgia. For the antiquarians among you, the farm belonging to the Augustan poet Horace is also nearby. The town of Tivoli is about 30 kilometers from Rome. Take the A24 east and turn off at Via Empolitana. Follow the signs to Tivoli, Villa Adriana and Villa d'Este. Alternatively, take the train from Rome (Tiburtina Station) to Tivoli. You'll have to take a bus or taxi to the Villa from the center of the town of Tivoli.

Just Two Days in Rome? What Not to Miss

Ideally, you should spend at least a week in Rome to even begin to experience it properly. But there is a lot to see in Italy, so it's understandable if you have to run. To be sure that you see everything you must and still have a chance to experience La Dolce Vita (which must never be crammed or rushed) here are some itinerary ideas. Be prepared to walk a lot!
Day 1:
-Start with a visit to St. Peter's and the Vatican. Make sure you make a reservation ahead of time (either by faxing the Museum or arranging a tour guide through a company) to avoid wasting your time in line for the Vatican Museums.
-After your visit, take a leisurely stroll past the Castel San Angelo (a.k.a. Mausoleum of Hadrian) and cross the Tiber via the Ponte San Angelo.
-Continue to the area around Piazza Navona. Stop and have lunch at one of the many (not cheap!) restaurants right on the Piazza, or try the restaurant Cul de Sac, just around the corner at Piazza Pasquino #73. You'll find more wines than you can imagine and delicious small plates.
-After lunch head east toward the Piazza della Rotonda (stop at Santa Maria Novella Profumeria on the way) to visit the Pantheon.
-After you have feasted your eyes upon the wonder that is the Pantheon, head north to Giolitti's for a much-deserved gelato.
-Continue east to Piazza di Spagna. Get distracted by the designer shops along the Via Condotti on your way to climb the Spanish Steps.
-By now your feet will be tired. Head back to your hotel for a nap before dinner or up to the Pincio for some cool breezes and refreshing views.
-For dinner try restaurants near or on Campo dei Fiori. Soak up the evening light. Have another gelato.
Day Two:
-Head to the Roman Forum when it opens to avoid the crowds. The official opening time is 8:30, but if you show up a little earlier, you'll probably get in.
-Purchase your ticket to the Colosseum at the entrance to the Palatine Hill. You'll save tons of time waiting in line.
-Head back through the Forum (or go around the Palatine through the Circus Maximus, which is now a big open field) over to the Capitoline Hill (Campidoglio). Have a coffee to restore yourself.
-Visit the Capitoline Museum. Don't miss the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius and the amazing view of the Forum.
-Head over to the Jewish Ghetto for lunch. Pass by the Theater of Marcellus on the way.
-If your feet can handle it, walk through the Campo dei Fiori, up to the Piazza della Rotonda, and over to the Piazza Borghese to browse the antique books and prints stalls.
-Have a gelato. you deserve it.
-Before dinner (preferably after you have had a chance to rest your feet for an hour or two) visit the Trevi Fountain. It's best seen at night, so don't go out for dinner too early!
-Hop in a cab or take a bus over to Trastevere for dinner. Relax in Piazza Santa Maria and get lost in the winding streets.
-If you are up for it, walk back to your hotel through the historic center. Rome at night is magical.

"Ancient Rome on Five Denarii a Day" by Philip Matyszak

This well-written and clever book takes you back to Ancient Rome as a tourist. From arrival by sea at Ostia to arranging lodgings and entertainment, you will find the book's clear and humorous approach to ancient Roman culture a delight to read. Included in the book are wonderful quotes from Latin authors about daily life in ancient Rome and countless explanations of ancient Roman customs and practices. There are even a few walks that you can still take today. Adults who love history and young people who are students of Latin and the Classics will equally enjoy this book.
Ancient Rome on Five Denarii a Day

White Wines of Rome

Certainly the wines of Italy are renowned. The wines of the region surrounding Rome (Lazio) are not as well-known as some of the neighboring regions (like Tuscany). But Roman wines, especially the whites, are quite popular within the region and some are even widely exported. You may have heard of Est! Est! Est! from Montefiascone, made from combinations of Malvasia and Trebbiano grapes. Other white wines that are worthy of note are the Castelli Romani (Roman Castles) from the Alban Hills region around Lake Nemi (pictured above). The wines from this area have an ancient reputation, and in particular Frascati and Marino have an international following. The region offers many other interesting white wines (also made primarily with Malvasia grapes), such as Colli Albani, Colli Lanuvini, and Montecampatri-Colonna. You will find that the white wines from Lazio are sweet, fruity, light, and not meant to be set down for long periods of time. Enjoy them on the younger side. Look for these wines on the menu in restaurants and wine bars or pick up a bottle at an enoteca (wine shop). Try the Enoteca Bernabei at Via San Francesco a Ripa #48 in Trastevere for a great selection and helpful guidance.
Readers: What are some of your favorite white wines of Lazio?

Renting an Apartment in Rome for Your Vacation

Hotels in Rome are expensive. And with the dollar losing value at an alarming rate, they aren't getting any cheaper. Even if you find a reasonable hotel, you'll still have to pay to eat out for every meal. Consider renting an apartment. Not only will you pay a fraction of the cost for your accomodations (and get a living room and maybe even a private garden or terrace too), but you will also be able to truly live la dolce vita by shopping in the outdoor markets and cooking for yourself. There are countless rental agencies who work in Rome. Some reputable sites are: Vacanza Roma, Loving Apartments, Leisure in Rome and Barclay International Group.

The Pincio

Perched above Piazza del Popolo in the center of Rome is a charming park called the Pincio. From the Piazza Napoleone on top of the Pincian hill you can look out at the "skyline" of Rome-countless church domes, with St. Peter's the most prominent. The Pincio is a perfect place for a spot of shade on a hot summer day or a leisurely stroll at sunset. If you head south from the park along the ridge of the hill, passing the Villa Medici which is now the French Academy in Rome, you will eventually reach the top of the Spanish Steps and the Church of the Trinita dei Monti.

Rome-A Festival of Music

Martin Randall Travel, a UK based touring company, has an exciting package for travelers who love music. Seven private concerts in palaces and churches from February 3-9 of 2008 are available to participants in their "Rome-A Festival of Music" tour. The packages start at 1,990 British pounds and include flights from the UK, hotels, three dinners, all breakfasts, drinks during some performances, transport to and from the airport and to some concert venues, lectures on the music, tips, taxes and private views of galleries (most notably the Galleria Borghese and the Sistine Chapel-priceless). If you do not fly from the UK and make your own air reservations, there is a reduction of 120 British pounds. The company has a myriad of tours in Rome and Italy throughout the year, so if music isn't your cup of tea (or espresso) there is certainly something else for you.

Obelisks of Rome-Piazza della Rotonda

You may notice that Egyptian obelisks feature prominently in almost every piazza. There are thirteen obelisks in Rome which came from Egypt or were made in Rome. The first obelisks came to Italy from Egypt with Augustus (then called Octavian) after his defeat of Antony and Cleopatra in 30 BCE. The obelisk in the Piazza della Rotonda in front of the Pantheon was commissioned by the pharaoh Ramses II in the 13th century BCE and erected in front of the temple of Ra in Heliopolis, Egypt. The obelisk was brought to Rome in the 1st century BCE and set up in the Temple of Isis. In 1711 Pope Clemens XI moved the obelisk to a fountain in the Piazza della Rotonda and placed the Chigi family crest, an 8 sided star above 6 mountains, atop it.

Day Trips from Rome-Il Parco dei Monstri in Bomarzo

About an hour's drive from Rome is the lovely medieval hillside town of Bomarzo. The town is topped by a palace built by the Orsini family. The Orsinis traced their origins to Julius Caesar and were very prominent among the papacy and royalty throughout the Middle Ages and Renaissance. The main attraction of Bomarzo is the Park of the Monsters (Il Parco dei Monstri). In 1552 Pier Francesco Orsini commissioned Pirro Ligorio, the architect who designed the Villa d'Este at Tivoli, to design a garden as a gift for his wife, Guilia Farnese. The garden is not the typical Renaissance garden filled with manicured hedges and classical sculptures. Rather it is a fantasy of mythological structures and sculptures, monsters and deities each stranger than the next. The sculptures are on a grand scale, inspiring awe in the visitors and also allowing them to interact with the sculptures. It's a wonderful place to bring children-and adults will love it too! To get there from Rome, take the A1 toward Florence and then the exit toward Viterbo. Follow the signs to Bomarzo.

Tiber Island Attractions

In the middle of the Tiber River is an island once home to a temple to the god of healing, Asklepios. Today the island still is place of medicine, housing a hospital since the 16th century. The relics of Saint Bartholomew who was skinned alive and later became the patron saint of sufferers of skin diseases are actually buried on the island in a church (pictured at right) named for him. The island is more than just a hospital and a church, however. During summer nights there is a cafe with lively music and sometimes a film festival set up on the north end of the island which could provide a diversion on your way to and from Trastevere. There is also a very good restaurant called Sora Lella on the island at Via Ponte Quattro Capi #16.

What's Rome without Gelato?

You will certainly be tempted by gelaterias on every corner in Rome. But not every gelateria is created equally. One gelateria that you must visit is conveniently near the Pantheon. Ice cream and antiquities? What a wonderful combination. Giolitti, located at Via Uffici del Vicario #40 (head north on Via del Pantheon and turn right) is a sight of great wonders. There are countless gelato and sorbetto flavors in combinations you have only dreamed about. To order your gelato to go, pay first at the register (cono piccolo-small cone; cono medio-medium; cono grande-large) and then push your way to the front of the gelato counter, hand the man behind the counter your receipt, and in your most clear and confident voice, tell him the flavors that you want in Italian. Everything is labeled, of course. If you'd like to sit down, there are certainly tables available. It will cost you more, but you can order all sorts of exciting gelato creations from the menu. Buon Appetito!

Max Mara-(Relatively) Reasonably Priced Italian Style

Perhaps you have heard about this classic Italian women’s clothing brand and you aren’t really interested. Well, Max Mara in Italy is not like Max Mara in the U.S. The designs are simple, luxurious, and stylish-and you can actually wear them in your real life. And the prices are always 30% less in Italy. The shop is located at Via Condotti 17-19a near Piazza di Spagna and takes up three storefronts with dresses, sweaters, suits and accessories.

Long Lines at the Vatican Museums-What can you do about it?

A visit to the Vatican Museums, the Sistine Chapel and St. Peters is essential for any first-time (or fifth-time) visitor to Rome. Unfortunately, the line to get into the Vatican Museums is notoriously long-2 hours is not an unusual wait time. There are a few things you can do.
If you are willing to pay extra for a guided tour:
1. You can ask your hotel concierge to recommend a tour company and guide to take you in. For a premium you will be able to avoid the line and you'll have the added benefit of an expert's explanations of the sometimes poorly marked galleries.
2.You can fax the Vatican tour office at least two weeks ahead of time to request a guided tour. Guided tours for individuals cost 23.50 Euros and must be confirmed by fax from the Vatican to be considered valid. See the Vatican's website for instructions.
If you don't want to work with a guide, you can brave the queue. Two suggestions:
1. Arrive an hour before the opening time (10:00 most days, but check the Vatican Museums website to make sure). There will be a line and you'll have to wait for an hour, but you won't have to wait long after the museum has opened and you will have the added benefit of getting to the galleries and the Sistine Chapel before they get too crowded.
2. Visit St. Peter's first and then at around 1:00 try the Museums. Depending on the day, most of the larger groups will have finished their tours and taken off for lunch, leaving a short line for entrance and galleries less crowded.
Remember that weekends, holiday seasons (especially Christmas and Easter), and summer months are always the busiest. And try to avoid the "Free Sundays" that occur at the end of each month. Mama mia, you've never seen such crowds!

de Medicis and Detroit

You may have read in the New York Times that Detroit is among the 53 Places to Go in 2008 (#40-and Rome wasn't even on the list!). The newly renovated Detroit Institute of Arts is one of the reasons that the city was included. In addition to impressive French, African and American collections, the museum houses extensive Medieval and Renaissance works from all over Europe. In particular, there is one gallery devoted to the patronage and influence of the Medici family. Not only was this Florentine banking family famous for its financial prowess, but many of its members married royalty (depicted is Eleonora of Toldeo by Agnolo Bronzini, 1550, member of the Spanish royal family who married Cosimo de Medici in 1539) and even became cardinals and popes. Countless artists in Renaissance Florence and Rome flourished through their support. The DIA gallery not only depicts portraits of various members of the family, but also objects from the workshops of the many artists, such as Donatello, who enjoyed the backing of the Medicis. Don't miss the models of Gian Lorenzo Bernini's fountains for Piazza Barberini in Rome and the exhibit on the "The Grand Tour," which portrays the journeys that wealthy young men would take to Italy in the 18th century-and the paintings and sculptures they brought home with them. Naturally, don't forget to visit the Classical gallery, where you will find Roman jewelry and Greek vases (and a demonstration of mixing wine with water, a necessity for those strong ancient vintages).